Christensen

Tedswoodworking Plans

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is a professor of technology education and coordinator of the woodworking program at Brigham Young University.

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Turning an elk-antler bowl

The photos below show how to turn a small natural-edge bowl from an elk burr. I often give elk bowls an ebony inlay to contrast with the antlers natural coloring. You can use the same process to make a lid for the bowl, or other small vessels. —KG

Step t: Rough-turn the bottom and rim. Saw the burr from the base of an elk antler and center it between a spur drive center and ball-bearing tailstock. Face the larger end of the burr away from the headstock and apply light pressure with the tailstock. A Vg-in. spindle gouge (shown here) works well for concave cuts. For convex cuts, the author recommends a '/8-in. modified parting tool (Henry Taylor brand, available from Craft Supplies USA, 800-551-»876).

Step 3: Add the inlay; turn and finish the inside. Turn an inlay disc—the author makes his Vg in. thick—and cut a matching recess on the burr. Attach the disc with CA, then part away the center as shown here, leaving a ring about V4 in. wide. Now turn the inside of the bowl to final shape. Sand the inside to 600 grit, then sand with 0000 steel wool. Finish the turned portions with padding lacquer or paste wax, or with a plastic polish on a rag. (Don't catch the rag on the delicate edge!)

Step 2: Fortify with glue, and finish-turn the outside. Rough-turn a shoulder at the spur center end. about 1 in. dia. and V4 in. long. Turn the lathe off, and apply thin cyanoacrylate adhesive (CA) with a cotton swab to the inner antler. Add gap-filling CA to reinforce the pores; cure it with CA accelerator. Finish-turn the shoulder and mount it in a scroll chuck. With the tailstock in place, turn the bottom and edge to final shape and thickness. Leave the natural edge V|{, in. thick.

Step 4: Turn the foot. Part or saw the bowl off the lathe, leaving enough material at the bottom for a base or foot. Mount a block of scrapwood to a center-screw faceplate, and turn it to roughly fit the inside of the antler bowl-not too tight, not too loose. Secure the bowl with masking tape, leaving the base area exposed. Take very light cuts on the base, reinforcing porous areas with CA. Sand and finish as before.

Ollfstandby. Hide glue kept the rh.u.uihs' furniture int.ut 4,0p0 years 'ago—and it's Just as useful today. You can even choose different strengths and "recipes" to lit your particular application.

Hide glue has been used since the dawn of woodworking, and with good reason. This simple animal glue offers woodworkers several advantages that today's high-tech adhc-sives just can't match. You can choose different strengths of hide glue for different situations. And by adding a few ingredients, you can extend the glue's working time, improve its adhesion, or make the cured glue more clastic. You can even disassemble a cured hide-glue joint and start over.

In this article I'll tell you how to select, mix, and apply hide glue. I'll also share some of my favorite recipes for different gluing situations. (See sidebar, opposite page.) Finally, on page 57 I'll show you how to use hide glue to repair old furniture.

Types of Hide Glue

Hide glue is derived from collagen, which is present in animal hides and bones. Hides undergo extensive washing to remove excess acids and water-soluble salts. This process creates a refined gelatin that we know as hide glue. The glue is dried to form pearls or smaller granules. These odorless particles, which vary in color from light amber to dark

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  • ville-veik
    How to turn a lid for a bowl?
    8 years ago

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