Red elm "urban salvage" is available from Eco Timber International, 1020 Heinz Ave., Berkeley, CA 94710, (510) 549-3000 Circic *613 Battery-operated quartz movement with mechanical strike (part #1003327) is available from Precision Movements, Box 689, Emmaus, PA 18049, (800) 533-2024 Circle #614

Clock dial (part 7416S) and hands (part 4870X) are available from Woodcraft Supply, Box 1686, Parkersburg, WV 26102, (800) 225-1153 Circle #615

a chiscl to score deeply along the shoulder line. Now pare the scored line to form a shallow channcl, square along the shoulder line. (See bottom left photo.) This channcl will guide your saw, keeping the shoulder cut square to the edge.

Since the mortises arc small, I chop them with a V^-in. mortising chiscl instead of bothering to drill out the waste. It's a good idea to rcinforcc the stock with a clamp and some wood scraps, to help prevent the work from splitting. (See bottom right photo.) At this point, you can also chop the mortises in the top half of the door.

When you're done making the tenons and mortises, you'll need to miter the round-overs on the inside edges, so you can fit the frame members snugly together. The sidebar opposite explains this in greater detail.

The solid panel for the door frame is thicker than the groove that holds it, so you'll need to raise its inside face. (Sec Section B-B, page 59.) I do this with a sharp hand plane.

Final-sand the parts, then glue up the door. Make sure that the assembly is square, and that the top and bottom sections lie in the same plane. Once you've removed the clamps, cut the circular opening for the glass in the top portion of the door—I use a scroll-saw—and rout the rabbet for the glass. I tack a quarter-round strip of rubber, sold at local glass suppliers, behind the glass to cushion it. (See Section A-A, page 59.)

At this point, I cut the mortises for the hinges and fit a half-mortisc lock in the door. (For more on fitting half-mortise locks, see AW #56.) But you could substitute a small pull and a friction catch. (Sec Pull Detail, page 59.)

Final Notes

I finished this clock with tung oil, then installed the clock dial and battery-powered quartz movement. If you prefer to use a mechanical movement (available from Kiockit, 800-556-2548) you'll need to enlarge the case slightly. ▲

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

THIS book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company. Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this series, it is written so you can understand it. The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects. The textand illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

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