Shelves

After all the moldings were attached, I made the 3/4" plywood shelves (W), see Fig. 14.

cut to size. To determine the size of the shelves, measure the inside of the case. To allow for edging, I cut the shelves to width \/2" less than the depth of my case. Then cut the shelves Vs" less than the distance between the divider and the cabinet side.

tongues. After cutting the shelves to size, the next step is to rout tongues on the front for the edging strips, see Fig. 14. (For more on edging plywood, see Woodsmith No. 62.)

edging. Now cut the l"-wide shelf edging (X) from 3/4"-thick stock. Next cut off-center grooves in each strip to fit over the tongues on the shelves. And then glue the edging in place.

support holes. To hold the shelves, I used brass pin supports. Drill V4" holes for pin supports in the cabinet sides (A) and the divider (B). To position the holes, I cut a drilling template to fit between the bottom and top of the cabinet as shown in Fig. 13.

clothes rod. If you want to use the armoire to hang clothes, you will have to add a clothes rod (Y), see Fig. 15.1 supported the rod with two rod supports (Z). The supports in turn are held in place with two pins that fit into the shelf support holes.

Cut the supports from W-thick stock 2"

wide and 19" long. Next, drill 1" holes, only W deep centered on each piece. Then rout an "escape" area for the rod to be removed above one of the holes, see Fig. 15a.

Now drill holes and mount V4" dowel pins on the back side of each support to align with the holes in the cabinet. Finally, fit the supports into the cabinet and cut a l"-dia. dowel to length so it wedges between the supports.

Routering Wood Moldings Stop Chamfer Bit

SIDE CROWN MOLDING -

FRONT CROWN ^ MOLDING

a. FRONT CROWN MOLDING

BASE (ff

DRILUNG TEMPLATE FOR SHELF SUPPORTS

STOP CHAMFER ABOUT

SIDE CROWN MOLDING

FROM CROWN MOLDING

(BACK VIEW)

CHAMFER BIT

STILE

GLUE COVE MOLDING IN PLACE

. OGEE FRONT MOLDING

Fh WOOD-SCREW

COVE FRONT MOLDING

COVE

FRONT KICKBOARD

NOTE:

CUT SIDE MOLDINGS FLUSH WITH BACK OF CASE

OGEE FRONT MOLDINGS

SHELF EDGING

ROD ~ SUPPORT

1" DOWEL, 221/8" LONG

1/4" DOWEL PINS MUST ALIGN WITH SUPPORT HOLES IN CABINET

DETAIL

3/4" PLYWOOD

fThe last step in building the armoire is to make and install the doors. I started with the frames.

stiles. Since the doors have an arched top, the in-— side stiles (AA) will be longer than the outside stiles (BB), see Fig. 16. Begin by cutting all the stiles to a width of 3" and the two outside stiles (BB) to a rough length of 64". (The top ends will be trimmed down after the arched rail is cut.)

To determine the length of the inside stiles (AA), measure the height of the door openings at their highest point (67^8" in my case) .Then, since the doors overlap the case by V4", add V2 to this measurement.

rails. Next, i cut the rails. First, glue-up two 3/4"-thick blanks for the top rails (CC) and rip them 9" wide, see Fig. 17. (The arch shape will be cut later.) Then rip the middle rails (DD) 41/2" wide and the bottom rails (EE) 3" wide, see Fig. 18.

The formula for the length of the rails is to measure across the door opening (20W) and subtract the combined width of the two stiles (6"). Then add V^" for the overlap.

mortises. The frames are assembled with mortise and spline joints. Start by laying out the locations of the mortises on all the rails, see Figs. 17 and 18.

To transfer the locations of the mortises to the stiles (see Fig. 19), I laid all of the pieces down exactly as they will appear in the assembled door, see Fig. 16. Then, mark and cut the mortises in both the stiles and rails. (Note: The W'-wide mortises are offset on the thickness to align with grooves cut later for the raised panels, see Figs. 17 and 18.)

Now, cut splines to fit the mortises and dry assemble the door frames.

clttingthe arch.The next step is to cut the top door rails (CC) to their arched shape. To lay out this shape, I made a template by tracing the arched door opening onto a piece of cardboard, see Fig. 20. Then cut the template to shape and transfer it to the top door rail (CC) and outside stile (BB), see Fig. 21.

After cutting the top edge of the rails and top end of the outside stiles to shape, cut the bottom edge of the arched rails using the band saw and drum sander technique shown on page 28.

panel grooves. The last step on the door frames is to rout grooves around the inside of the stiles and rails for the raised panels, see Fig. 22.1 cut the grooves with a Vi" slot cutter on the router table.

To do this, raise the bit until it's aligned with the mortises. Then, rout the grooves along the inside edges of the rails. On the inside edges of the stiles, don't rout beyond the mortises, see Fig. 22a.

TOP (ARCH) RAIL

inside stile end mortises, 3/4" deep outside stile end all rails and stiles 3'4m thick

(AA) INSIDE STILE

OUTSIDE STILE

inside face rough

MIDDLE RAIL

all mortises Va" wide deep bottom rail

NOTE: cut splines to fit mortises transfer mortise measurements from rails to stiles /

BOTTOM RAIL

// transfer jf shape of // door opening! 7 onto top door i rail and stiles cardboard template template and top end of inside stile must be flush align slot cutter with mortise \

rout grooves on inside

-edges of stiles and top and bottom rails don't rout - beyond end mortise stile rout grooves on both edges of middle rail

1/4" slot cutter

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