looks like a well-preserved antique, Andrews actually made it recently with standard 4/4, 5/4, and 8/4 pine.
The bench construction is an exercise in frame-and-panel joinery. As shown in Fig. 2, there are five separate frame-and-pancl assemblies: two sides (which include the bench legs), a back, a front, and a seat back. Andrews screws the lower assemblies together at the corners to form a box, then adds the seat and the seat back to create a comfortable bench. Cleats attached to the inside of the box hold the bench bottom in place.
Making the Arms, Rear Legs and Panels begin by cutting out a pair of arms and a pair of rear legs. (See Fig. 3.) These are the only parts made from 8/4 stock, and they're also the only curved parts in the project.
Don't cut the tenon in each arm at this stage; just shape the top edges of the arms using a drawshave or spoke-shave. Work for an easy, even curve that feels good to the touch.
Next, glue up all the blanks you'll need to make the 5/-i bench seat and the bottom and raised panels, which are made from i/ i stock. For now, it's best to size each panel at least x/i in. wider and longer than the finished dimensions given in the Hill of Materials in Fig. 2. This way, you can custom-fit each part to its opening later.
Making the Stiles, Rails and Seat Frame
Now you'll want to cut the stiles, rails and the IJ-shaped seat frame to size. Note: Don't cut the notches in the-seat frame yet.
At this point you're ready to groove the stiles, rails and rear legs to accept the raised panels. (See Fig. 1.) Andrews does this on the tablesaw with a dado cutter, but another alternative is to rout the grooves with a slotting bit in a router table. Whichever method vou m choose, make sure you center the cutter on the 5/-i stock, testing your setup on some scrap pieces first.
Once you've grooved the stiles and rails, use the same setup to mill the stopped panel grooves in the rear legs shown in Fig. 2. To make sure the grooves align with the rails, register the outside face of each leg against the fence on your saw or router table. litis way, the side panels will lit in the correct plane during assembly. (See photo, above.)
Mortising work comes next, and there arc plenty of mortises to cut in this project. Andrews cuts his I 'u in. deep, making most of them with a V in. mortising bit in the drill press. To cut the angled mortises in the re*ar legs, shown in the side view in Fig. 3. he uses a bevel gauge to lay out the angles on the side of the legs. Then he uses a hand drill to remove most of the waste, cleaning up the walls of the mortises with a chisel.
Now it's time for the tenons. For this project, Andrews cuts all except the arm tenons (they come later) on the tablesaw. making multiple passes over the dado cutter. You'll want to cut all the tenons to a uniform vn-in. thickness, then make the notch cuts in the tenons that have to be haunchcd. You'll find these tenons wherever panel grooves are exposed at corner joints. (Sec Fig. 2.)
Finish up this part of the project by bandsawing the curved cutouts for the feet. (See Fig. 3 )
Since the raised panels must float in their frames to allow for wood movement, it's important to size each panel individually. It's a good idea to take your measurements off the frames after dry-fitting them. Dry-fitting not only gives you accurate dimensions, it also lets vou check the fit of the mortise-
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There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.