Lip molding

With the bottom section completed, I flipped the cabinet right side up and started on the lip molding for the top edge of the box.

To make the lip molding, rip enough stock 1%" wide for all four sides of the box. Then cut a '/«"-deep groove %" from the outside edge of the molding, see Fig. 16. (Note: Adjust the width of this groove to fit the top edge of the cabinet.)

Next, rout a V2" cove on the bottom outside edge of the lip molding, and remove the sharp corners on the inside edges using a V* rounding over bit set at a very shallow depth. Finally, miter the lip molding to fit the rim of the box, and glue it in place, see Fig. 17.

NOTE: MEASUREMENTS INCLUDE AN EXTRA </.»" IN LENGTH FOR CUTTING DOVETAIL JOINT

BOX DIMENSIONS

Drill Press Table And Fence

11 Vi"

DOVETAIL DETAIL

FIGURE 14

NOTE: MEASUREMENTS INCLUDE AN EXTRA </.»" IN LENGTH FOR CUTTING DOVETAIL JOINT

11 Vi"

BOX DIMENSIONS

DOVETAIL DETAIL

FIGURE 15

1 st ATTACH BOX TO UPPER FRAME 2nd ATTACH DRAWER CARCASE 3rd ATTACH KICKBOARD ASSEMf

41 W

CROSS SECTION

END APRON

LOWER FRAME

LOWER FRAME

KICKBOARD

LOWER FRAME

LOWER FRAME

KICKBOARD

FIGURE 15

1 st ATTACH BOX TO UPPER FRAME 2nd ATTACH DRAWER CARCASE 3rd ATTACH KICKBOARD ASSEMf

41 W

CROSS SECTION

END APRON

COVE BIT

ROUT TO WIDTH OF BOX SIDE

FIGURE 16

TOP LIP MOLDING

ROUND OVER

FIGURE 17 TOP LIP MOLDING

GLUE AND CLAMP TO TOP EDGE OF BOX ON AU SIDES

MITER CORNER

INSIDE CORNER

FIGURE 20

the lid

Even though the first thing most people notice on a blanket chest is its lid, most contemporary chests are sold with either cushions covering the lid, or a little railing around the perimeter.

For the lid on this chest, I decided to follow the design found on most traditional chests — a flat, solid-wood lid that's simple in design, and lets the beauty of the wood speak for itself.

gluing. Since the lid overhangs the lip molding %" on all four sides, the first step is to glue up enough stock to produce a panel that can be trimmed down to provide the overhang. Then the lid (M) is planed flat, and trimmed to its final dimensions.

molding. After the lid is trimmed to final size, its outside edge is molded with a Vz rounding over bit, leaving an Ys" shoulder, see Cross Section detail in Fig. 18. Then on the bottom outside edge, the sharp edge is removed using a W rounding over bit set at a very shallow depth of cut.

the drawers

One of the things that makes this chest different from its modern counterparts are three functional drawers. The drawers are built in two sections; the four-sided drawer, and the false fronts that are molded to match the design of the chest.

drawers. The first step is to cut the Vz" drawer stock for the fronts and backs (N and 0) to fit between the drawer runners, and '/is" narrower than the height of the openings. Then cut the sides of the drawers (P) 15" long (for a 1" clearance at the back of the drawer), and to the same width as the drawer fronts.

joinery. To keep the joinery consistent, I used through dovetails routed with the jig shown on page 22 (the spacing is shown in Fig. 20). (Note: These drawers could also be joined with half blind dovetails using the standard router fixtures reviewed in Woodsmith No. 22.)

After completing the corner joinery, cut a V4" groove for the drawer bottom (Q and R) %" from the bottom edge, see Fig. 20.

bottom. Finally, dry clamp the drawers together and measure the groove-to-groove openings for the drawer bottoms. Then cut the Y\ Masonite bottoms to fit, and glue the drawers together with the drawer bottoms in place. (Shop Note: To apply clamping pressure to the tails, I used the clamping block shown in Fig. 21.)

false fronts. Each drawer has a i:Ki6" thick false front that's attached directly to the drawer front. To find the dimensions for the large false front (S), measure from center to center on the drawer dividers, see Fig. 19. Then cut the large false front to this length, and to the same height as the drawers.

DRAWER DIMENSIONS

GROOVE =•/." FROM BOTTOM '/«" WIDE, »/.«" DEEP ON ALL PIECES

LARGE DRAWER FRONT/BACK (2 PIECES)

FRONT/BACK

SIDES (6 PIECES)

FIGURE 20

FRONT/BACK

PINS TAILS

LARGE DRAWER FRONT/BACK (2 PIECES)

SIDES (6 PIECES)

DRAWER DIMENSIONS

GROOVE =•/." FROM BOTTOM '/«" WIDE, »/.«" DEEP ON ALL PIECES

V"

ROUNDING OVER BIT

FIGURE 22

CENTERED

ON DRAWER FRONT

To find the lengths for the small drawer fronts (T), measure the distance from the center of the drawer dividers to the outside edge of the side apron, and subtract Vie" for clearance, see Fig. 19. Then cut the two small false fronts to length, and to the same height as the drawers.

molding. The outside edges on the false fronts are routed with a V2" rounding over bit to match the moldings on the cabinet, see Fig. 22. Then I attached the large false front centered on the large drawer, and the small drawer fronts so they're flush with the outside face of the end aprons, see Fig. 23.

HARDWARE

drawer pulls. The drawer pulls I used (see Sources on page 24) are centered on the width, 1%" down from the top edge of the drawer fronts, and the screw holes are counter-bored from the back, see Fig. 22.

lock. To mount the full mortise lock, I drilled a series of %" holes 1" from the front edge of the lip molding, see Fig. 24. Then the hole for the key is drilled, and the escutcheon is mounted over the key hole.

hinges. When mounting the special hinges (that are designed for the excessive overhang of the lid), mortise them into both the lip molding and the lid, see Fig. 25. Then I added an optional (and expensive, see Sources page 24) lid support to prevent the lid from slamming shut.

finish. Naturally, I couldn't resist using the polymerized tung oil described on page 7. So I applied two coats of tung oil sealer, and four coats of medium luster tung oil. Note: Be sure not to finish the cedar, or you'll reduce its aromatic characteristic.

materials list

Overall Dimensions: 22WH x 185/g"W - 437/«"L

materials list

Overall Dimensions: 22WH x 185/g"W - 437/«"L

A

End Stiles (4)

,3/l6 X 2'/4-

- 18 Va

B

Center Stiles (4)

"/.6 X 2% -

- 143/»

C

Frt/Bk Rails (4)

"/tô x 2Va-

- A 3 Va

D

End Aprons (2)

"/|6 x 5 —

16'/a

E

Back Apron (1)

'»/16 x 5 —

42'/a

F

Drawer Dividers (2)

I3/i« x 5 —

15,5/l6

G

Kickboard Frt/Bk (2)

'3/l6 x 3 Vi -

- 437/a

H

Kickboard Ends (2)

,3/»6 x 3Va -

- 1 8Va

1

Box Frt/Bk (2)

'»/,* x 11'A

— 41 Vi

J

Box Ends (2)

»/,6 x 11

— 16

K

Top Lip Frt/Bk (2)

'3/l6 X l3/.-

- 42 Vi

L

Top Lip Ends (2)

,3/.6 X l3/4-

- 17»/4

M

Lid (1)

»/,« X 177/s

— 43 Va

N

Sm Drawer Frt/Bk (4)

Vi x 47/i6 -

- 11

0

Lg Drawer Frt/Bk (2)

Vi x 47/i6 -

- 16,S/l6

P

Drawer Sides (6)

V% x 47/i6 -

- 15

Q

Sm Drawer Bottom (2) cut to fit

R

Lg Drawer Bottom (2)

cut to fit

S

Lg False Front (1)

'V,6 X 47/.6

— 18

T

Sm False Front (2)

,3/i6 x 47/i*

— 12

U

End Panel(4)

'/4 X 103/8 -

- 143/»

V

Center Panel (2)

1/4 X 163/«-

- 14%

W

Aromatic Red Cedar

cut to fit

FIGURE 23

FALSE FRONT

LOCK MORTISE DETAIL

CHISEL

USE %" DRILL BIT

LIP MOLDING

MORTISE 2" DEEP

LOCK MORTISE DETAIL

MORTISE 2" DEEP

CHISEL

USE %" DRILL BIT

LIP MOLDING

cutting diagram

VÎ' x 5 Vi" — 96"

P

1 -

1

p 1

P

p 1

p

" 1

" 1

N

1 «

o

1 0

HINGE ATTACHMENT

HINGE

POSITION HINGE PIN JUST BEYOND EDGE OF LIP

CUT OFF SHANK

#8 x BRASS SCREW

HINGE

POSITION HINGE PIN JUST BEYOND EDGE OF LIP

FIGURE 25

HINGE ATTACHMENT

CUT OFF SHANK

#8 x BRASS SCREW

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Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

THIS book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company. Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this series, it is written so you can understand it. The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects. The textand illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

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