Attach the edge molding to the top with glue and splines. Glue the front molding along its full length. The side moldings are only glued on the front inch or two, then pinned with brad nails toward the back. This arrangement allows for seasonal expansion and contraction that would otherwise crack the top.
1 Free-hand rout the hinge mortises in the back of the JLvJ chest. Support blocks help steady the router on the edge of the back. Rabbets on the blocks create a free zone where you can position, start and stop the router safely. Rout close to the layout lines; then clean up the shoulders with a chisel.
Fig. H Top End Molding
To accommodate wood movement, glue is only used on the front few inches of the end molding on the top. The rest of the end molding is attached with brad nails driven up through the underside of the top into the spline.
51. Before you rout the spline slot in the glued-up top, make test cuts on a piece of scrap until you get a flush fit with the molding.
Tip: If you have a removable router mounting plate, simply lift the router and the plate out of the router table. You won't need to reset the bit depth from routing the groove in your molding.
53. Cut and fit the moldings. Glue the front molding in place using the spline.
54. Glue the splines into the side moldings and attach to the top (Photo 12). Nail the remaining portion of the side molding using brads (Fig. H).
Make the Top
48. Thickness-plane the boards for the top to 3/4-in. Use biscuits to help maintain a flat glue-up.
49. Sand out any irregularities. Then rip and crosscut the top to its final dimensions.
50. Make the top molding (Fig G) using the same ogee bit you used for the base molding. Cut the spline slot last.
Follow this simple cutting sequence for this molding:
1. Cut with a classic ogee bit.
2. Cut the 3/8-in. round-over—you'll need to set the bit pretty high for this one. Use guards and a featherboard.
3. Reset the bit depth. Flip the molding over and make the second round-over cut.
4. Move to the tablesaw to start the rabbet.
5. Rotate the piece 90 degrees, so the top is against the fence, to complete the rabbet.
6. Cut the groove with the molding upside down on the router table. Use a 1/4-in. slot cutter.
55. Cut the mortise to the full depth of the hinge knuckle (Photo 13). That way no mortise is necessary in the top.
56. Screw the hinges in the mortises; locate the hinge on the top and attach.
57. Attach a pair of safety lid supports (Photo 14).
59. We used a Danish oil finish on the walnut. Sand to 220 grit and apply three to four coats of finish. A couple coats of satin varnish will provide added luster and protection. /W
M Last, but not least, install safety lid supports on the blanket chest. Lid supports are a crucial safety feature that prevents the top from crashing down on an unsuspecting person's fingers.
(800) 225-1153, www.woodcraft.com Leigh D4-24 dovetail jig with standard bits included, $370
Porter Cable guide bushing, 7/16-in., #04C34, $8 Lid safety support left, #04431, $5 Lid safety support right, #04415, $5 Watco oil, #123977, $12 per quart.
CMT, (888) CMT-BITS, www.cmtusa.com
Leigh No. 128 dovetail bit, #818.132.11, $23
(514) 926-1079, www.gobywalnut.com 50 bd. ft. 4/4 quarter-figured walnut, $12 per bd. ft.
2 x 4-ft. sheet of 3/4-in. birch plywood, $18 2 x 4-ft. sheet of 1/4-in. birch plywood, $7 4/4 poplar, 10 bd. ft., $20.
Lee Valley and Veritas Hardware
(800) 871-8158, www.leevalley.com
One escutcheon, # 01A19.51, $1
cutting List Overall dimensions: 50-1/2" X 22-3/8" x 28-3/4"
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