HowTo Side Dadoes Rabbets

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Wide Dadoes. The 7 "-wide dadoes are cut in two passes. I placed a spacer against the rip fence to make the first pass.

Upper Rabbet. Start the upper rabbet by aligning the side with a mark on the fence and then plunging into the bit.

Wide Dadoes. The 7 "-wide dadoes are cut in two passes. I placed a spacer against the rip fence to make the first pass.

Lower Rabbet. The lower rabbet on the left side is started from the end. The opposite rabbet will require a plunge cut.

Upper Rabbet. Start the upper rabbet by aligning the side with a mark on the fence and then plunging into the bit.

Details 'a' and 'b' on the opposite page show the key measurements for the curves. I simply used a flexible strip of wood to draw them. A quick trip to the band saw and some time spent sanding will leave you with smooth contours.

MORTISES. Now you can lay out and cut the %" square mortises for the pins, as shown in tbe drawings on the opposite page. I simply drilled a shallow hole then squared it up with a chisel.

Finally, I routed a Vie" chamfer on the top, bottom, and front edges. The exception is the inside edge between the top and middle shelf where the door is hinged.

THE SHELVES. Making the shelves is a breeze. They are simply glued up and then cut to size. Just note that the shelves are recessed VV from the back edge of the sides and sit %" proud at the front.

After chamfering the front edges of the shelves, assemble the case with glue and screws. Then cut the false pins from a length of square stock to plug the mortises.

THE BACK. Now you're ready to add the back. This consists of a rail behind each shelf and a H" plywood panel that encloses the upper section of the case.

The drawings below show how to make the series of cuts needed to fit the rails to the case. First, you'll cut a tongue on the ends of the rails. This tongue will lay in the rabbets in the case sides (detail 'a' above).

Next, the top and middle rail need a rabbet along one back edge to hold the plywood back panel (details Y and'd'). The last step is a groove in the front face of each rail that allows it to fit snugly over the shelves (details 'c', 'd' and 'e').

IN PLACE. With all this work done, you can start adding the pieces to the case one at a time. The rails are glued and screwed to the shelves and the sides. Then the plywood panel is cut to fit and then glued and tacked to the rails and sides,

MOLDING. The last task is to make and fit two pieces of cove molding that will cover the screws used to mount the cabinet (details V and 'd'). Once the cabinet is on the wall, you can locate and inset rare-earth magnets on the back of the molding over the heads of the screws. The molding will simply stick to the heads of the screws.

Back Rail loinerv

Dado Blades And Molding Head

Aux. fence'

Dado blade

A Tongue. I used a dado blade buried in an auxiliary rip fence to rabbet the ends of the rails. The deep rabbet creates a tongue.

A Tongue. I used a dado blade buried in an auxiliary rip fence to rabbet the ends of the rails. The deep rabbet creates a tongue.

Panel Rabbet. The same general setup can be used to cut the panel rabbet in one back edge of the top and middle rails.

A Wide Groove. The final Step is to cut a wide groove into each rail aligned to fit snugly around the shelves.

Wall Dado Sections

©BACK PANEL

MOUNTING MOLDING

Vz'-dia. -rare-earth ^magnet

Magnet

BACK BOTTOM RAIL

S DE

SECTION

VIEW

Bottom shelf

NOTE: Mounting molding is added after cabinet is hung on wall

a. TOP SECTION VIEW

b. TOP SECTION VIEW

MG)BACK PANEL

Use to hold panel

Case side

H BACK TOP RAIL

SIDE SECTION VIEW

SIDE SECTION VIEW

Top shelf

Rabbet Dado Drawer Case

Aux. fence'

Dado blade

Rabbet And Dado Joint Box

Dado blade

adding the doors

Making the divided-light doors can be tackled in two stages. First, you'll build a mortise and tenon frame. Then the grid that divides the frame can be made and installed.

FRAME RABBETS. The frame and grid have a rabbeted lip to hold the glass panes. Here I took the traditional route and rabbeted the stiles and rails before the joinery was cut and the frame assembled. Ski once the frame pieces are cut to size, you can install a dado blade in the table saw to cut a rabbet along the back, inside edges (detail 'a'),

NEXT MORTISES. Now you can lay out and cut the mortises in the stiles (detail 'a'). I drilled out the bulk of the waste at the drill press and finished the job with chisels.

OFFSET TENONS. Since the stiles are already rabbeted, the tenons have to be made with offset shoulders (detail 'a'). The back cheek of the tenon is shorter to bridge the rabbet in the stile. The How-To box below shows the technique.

TENON PINS. Once all the tenons are cut and fit, you can glue up the two frames and add a false pin to each tenon. These pins match those used on the case sides.

WRAP IT UP. With the frames complete, you can make and install the dividers and add the glass, as explained on the following page. Then the doors are ready to hang.

The hinges are mortised into just the door, not the case. And with the doors in place, I added a stop and magnetic catches (detail 'c'). Stylish pulls complete the look.

After the finish is applied, you have one more tough chore — deciding which wall will best show off your work. E5

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