Drawerfront Section

Drawer front

Groove, % in. by VJ in. and set back % in., accepts pivot bead on drawer front.

Pivot bead, V4 in. by V4 in

tilts forward and down so that you can reach in for tea or whatever you decide to store inside. The sides and back are rounded so that the drawer slides open easily with the pull—-nothing more than a /i-ui.-dia. hole in the front—but the stop keeps the drawer from falling out on die floor. By twisting the stop you can easily remove the whole drawer for easy cleaning or restocking.

The four sides of the drawer are cut to size and dadoed with a %-w. blade to accept the plywood bottom. Make sure you cut the front % in. wider so that there will be enough material to form the pivoting bead

Making an easy bridle joint

AN EASY BUT REFINED DOOR DETAIL. With the rail grooved and the mortise cut, a band-saw trims away the inside edge to accept the stile.

A MITERED DOOR JOINT With a 45° miter jig clamped to the rail, a chisel pares to the line. This simple detail lends a framed and finished look to the door.

A PERFECT FIT. It's best to work out any problems before you begin glue-up. A dry run ensures that everything fits and that the bridle joints pull tight.


Rear wall of groove is removed to accept glass (above).

An Easy and Elegant Door along die bottom. Hie side edges of the front and back are rabbeted to accept the sides. The two sides and the back are all shaped on the handsaw, and a small notch is removed from the top center of the back to allow for the drawer stop.

Io provide the tilting action, the bottom of" die front of the drawer has a /¡-in. bead that protrudes down into the groove cut into the bottom of the case. Rout this bead on the inside of the drawer front, then use a dado blade to remove the front edge. This bead should fit nicely into the groove on the bottom of the case and allow the drawer to fall forward. The drawer is glued up with the bottom floating in the dadoes, and a few brads in the sides and back hold everything in place.

Building and Glazing the Door

The bulk of the work on this small piece involves the cabinet's natural focal point: the door. First, cut the rails and snlcs to IK m. wide and trim them to length. Use bridle joints ro frame the door. Bridle joints not only offer plenty of strength, but they also make easy work of measuring. Because die tenons run rhe full width of the door, simply mark the length of each piece off the case itself. The center rail is the one excep-

To lend a more elegant look to a simple door, muntins overlay a single piece of glass, giving the appearance that there are four separate panes.


Rear wall of groove is removed to accept glass (above).

Setting muntins in place

rail and stile grooves full length on the tablesaw.

Use a X-m. dado setup to cut the grooves on the inside faces of the rails and stiles. For the median and upper rails, you also remove the inside portion of the groove so that the glass can slide into place after the door has been assembled.

Using the same dado setup and a simple jig that fits over the tablesaw to hold the stiles upright, raise the blade to I in. and cut a tenon slot on the ends of die rails. Adjust the fence so that in two passes you're able to leave the M-m.-thick tenon. At the bands aw, trim down the width on the inside of the tenon by X in. You'll notice that this leaves the tenon length X in. shy of mating correctly. A simple miter jig clamped onto the rails and stiles helps guide the chisel for the 45° cuts.

Once you've milled and trimmed a center panel for the bottom of the door, the door can be glued up. When the glue dries, you'll still have to remove the inside of the groove on the upper portion of the door where the glass will be installed. Do this with a straightedge and a box knife, then clean it up with a chisel.

The final touch to this door is to install the muntins. Cut them % in. wide and center them on the square upper portion of the door. Then use a small gentleman's saw to cut the 45° miters that accommodate the muntins. Once die two pieces press-fit into place, lay one across the other and mark the centers. Cut a %-m. groove where the two cross each other. When installed, a few drops of glue at the groove and on the mitered ends, along with a little tension from the door itself hold everything in place.

Once the glass slides m, small pieces of molding are used to secure it. All that's left to do is to hang the door and apply the finish and hardware. I used an oil varnish from Waterlox to give this piece a natural look and to provide protection. The hinges I used are antiqued, solid brass H-hinges from Horton Brass (860-635-4400), and the knob is a Shaker-style bronze knob from Colonial Bronze (860-489-9233). After you're done, open the cabinet, reach in the drawer, and fix yourself a cup of tea.

don, and it is cut with small tenons that fit into K-in. by /'i-in. grooves on the stiles. Bv cutting the tenons and mortises [ in.

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