router, template and k-in.-dia. template guide make the Mn.-wide grooves in all four stretchers the same. Double-faced tape holds the template in place.
SPACERS ENSURE AN EVEN REVEAL. The author uses *-in.-thick hardboard spacers to set the reveal on end panels. Short sections of *-in. dia. dowel were later used to pin the panels in place from the inside, at center, top and bottom.
COMPLETING THE SIDE ASSEMBLIES. The last glue-up for the sides mates the four rail tenons and two stretcher tenons with the six leg mortises. Be sure the legs remain flat under clamping pressure. ■
Section through End Assembly with Front Leg
Pieces of varying thicknesses in the end assembles create
Pieces of varying thicknesses in the end assembles create
Panels and legs complete the sideboard ends All that n ¡named was to slide in the panels and clamp the legs to the rails. To ensure that the spacing around each panel was tlu same on all four sides, I used -ul-thick hardboard spacers see die third photo from top on p. 71 .Then I clamped the assemblies together, taking care to apply pn ssure evenlv across the two side rails and the stretcher see the bottom photo on p. 71).
I checked the legs to be sure their faces remained flat during glue-up. I also kept the top rails just a tad higher than the tops of the legs. Planing the long grain of the side rails is e isiei than planing the end grain at the top i>l the leg.
I tenoned all but one of the rails connecting the two ends, using the saim Multi-Router setup Id used lor the mortises and tenons holding tin en Is together; tlu <*ni exception was the dovetailed top front rail see the photo on the facing page .
Preparing for glue-up It was tempting it this point to smear on some glue, throw on the clamps and see how the piece looked. Experience has taught me. however, that preparation is evervthmg.
For starters, mv bench was tin» small and too high. So I built a staging an I connected four short sawhorses with braces and C-clamps. Then I put a sheet ol particle-hoard on top and shimmed it until it was flat, checking with a pair of large winding sticks.
I dry-assembled the piece exactlv as I would glue it up. I figured out where I needed to place all mv clamps and cauls and laid them in place. Then, after checking my carcase for square across its laces, I disassembled the piece.
Marking and mortising knife hinges
Before gluing up the carcase, I cut the mortises for tlu knife hinges at either end of
rhc bottom front raiL These mortises can be cut after the carcase has been glued up. but it vou wait until then. I guarantee it will become work designed to test your patience nd airsmg voelbulary.
I also look the opportunity to mortise the hinges at either end of the top front rail at this time. It s a good idea to wait on the mortises tor the inner doors the on» on either side of the center bav until after the divider panels are in.
I used L-shaped Brusso knife hinges available from many woodworking suppliers and from Larry and Fayr Brusso C o.; 810-674-8458 . I spaced them precisely a in. from the legs, using a piece of laminate as a shim. This created a reveal along the hinge stile for the door. I finished marking out the hinges and then disassembled the case.
I routed the hinge mortises to depth with a : -in. straight bit. taking care to teas lust a little back from the layout lines. I chopped out the front edge and ends of the hinge, laid the hinge in place at a slight angle and marked its back side again with a knife. I carefu!k pared to this line, checking the fir and paring again until the hinge fit perfectly.
With these hinge mortises completed, I glu< d up the carcast 1 instalh d the top front rail without glue, just to keep the front legs parallel during glue-up. This piece h id to come out is I worked on the case.
Dividing thf; Carcase for Doors and Drawi rs
Despite all precautions and diligence, glue-ups can still be a little crazed, and the results aren't alwavs dead-on. For that reason, I wait to do anv interior work in a.case piece until after it's glued together. This sideboard is divided into three sections: a center section with web frames tor three drawers and two outer sections, each ot which has a pair ot doors. Separating these sections are two walls, each consisting of a plywood divider panel splined to a solid divider rail below it. Kickers centered on the two divider panels lock them in place.
Stopped sliding dovetails connect the divider rails, u hich arc parallel to the ends of the carcase, to the bottom rails. To index thi se cuts tor i ' I made i sp.u\r th.it butted.up to the legs and was -supported by the bottom rail and stretcher. As it turned out. (his spacer proved useful again and ag.it i in building tlu car. I determine the width of the spacer I 5 in., as it turned out I, I took the intended opening for the doors and subtracted the distance between the edge ot the router sub-base and the center of the bit. Then, to rout the sliding dovetails. I laid the carcase on its face, clamped the spacer in place and routed away. I made two passes for each slot, one with a straight bit to eliminate most of the waste and one with the dovetail bit. Because the carcase is laid out symmetrically, I could use the spacer at both ends.
To si2e the divider rails, I measured between the front and rear bottom rails right up against the legs, where there was no r-issibiltty 1 \\ mg. I addtd . in. to:- the two dovetails and cut the divider rails to this length. I cut the dovetails on the router i ibK in. dovetail bit I had used to rout the slots. When I was sure the shoulder-to-shoulder length of the divider
WITH THE TOP FRONT RAIL FITTED, THE BASIC STRUCTURE IS COMPLETE. The rail is not glued in place yet. Dovetailed slots still need to be cut for kickers, and knie-hinge mortises must be routed before the rail can be permanently attached.
rail was right, t took .1 shaving or two off the end of each dovetail with a low-angle block plane so the joints would slide home more easily. Then I glued the divider rails in place, making sure that the\ were flush with or just slightly above the front and rear bottom rails.
After planing the top and bottom edges of the divider rails flush with tin long rails, 1 concentrated on the divider panels. I made these out of --in. mahi>ganv plywood to avoid shrinkage problems. im hist task was to glue banding on the front edge of each. I made this mahogam strip just as wide as mv front rail was thick.
Then the issue was how to attach these panels to the rails. I figured a spline joint was mv best bet in terms of strength and ease. I used the same spacer I had used for the dovetails to put a -in. groove dead centet 11 11* > the dmdi t 1 uK ■■■. < 1 lie pin 1 ■■ on p. 76 1 For the corresponding groove in the edge of the plvwood divider panel. I used 2 handheld plunge router with a secondary fence clamped to its base to keep cut tnii.
A spline cut in the top rear rail helps locate the divider panel even before the kicker is installed at the top of the case see tin divider detail on the facing p.iee , 1 routed this little stopped groove in the top rear rail using the same spacer board, notched the divider panels to til around the rear r.u! ind routed a groov* tht notched section to receive the spline.
Was this article helpful?
Wood finishing can be tricky and after spending hours on building your project you want to be sure that you get the best outcome possible. In The Complete Guide To Wood Finishing you will learn how to get beautiful, professional results no matter what your project is, even if you have never tried your hand at wood finishing before. You will learn about every step in the wood finishing process from a professional wood finisher with years of experience.