Loose tenon.

'Ain.KViln. xllfctn.

panel rules

Centered bWdMl M

side stretcher side stretcher

Centered bWdMl M

Mortising the legs

Mortising the legs

ROUTER JIG SPEEDS AND SIMPLIFIES JOINERY. The author used a Multi-Router to rout all the morttses and tenons on this sideboard. Grooves, dadoes and dovetail slots were done on a router table or with a handheld router. Dovetails were cut by hand. ■

vou'll Have later. I find it more than wxirth-while to do full-scale joinery drawings; they help me avoid unpleasant surprises.

Millvvork Lays the Foundation

\ poorly hid foundation ioi a h.uist causes problems Irom framing to finishing. Similarly, it vou build a piece of furniture with stock that's not straight and square, you're bound to run into it.miH«

First I rough-mill the stock and let it acclimate to my shop. I cut boards to w ithin in. of finished length and joint one face and an edge. I leave stock in. over in width and thickness. Then I sticker all the boards for a few days. If any boards cup, bow, twist or check, they're replaced. I take the boards down to their finished dimensions when I need to cut the joinery.

The millwork for the -in.-thick side panels in cach end ot the sideboard took some extra thought. I could have planed down 4/4 boards, bui half of each board would have ended up in mv dust collector. Instead. I resawed 5 4 stock. Because mv band saw can re saw boards only up to 8 in. wide. I ripped the IO-in.-wide material in half, resawed these pieces and then glued mating pieces back together. This gave me two book-matched panels about J* in. thick for each side with perfectly matching gram.

Begin the Carcase with the Ends

Each end assembly consists of a dozen pieces. I routed all the mortises and tenons, using a Multi-Router Nee the photo at lefi . although the joinery certainh . uld be cut in a number of other way». First I cut and fit the center siile tenons to the mortises in the upper and lower side rails. Then, with a -in. bit in my router table. I routed the grooves for the loose tenons that connect the panel rails to the center stile. Using thi samt router-tahh setup. I roughed out tlii panel grooves in ill- center stiK md panel rails. I did the final routing ot these grooves w hen the sideboard ends were dry-assembled. The stopped grooves for the loose tenons in the legs had to be marked and cut separately on the router table.

With the work on the center stiles done. I glued them between upper and lower side rails. I fitted e ich panel rail ' etween leg an J stile and then routed the grooves tor the loose tenons that connect tlu panel rails to ilii legs. After giving ill the rails i quick sanding, I glued the panel rails to the stile with loose tenons and to the upper and lower side rails with one #20 biscuit. If any ot the panel-rail shoulders don't line up pei fectlv with tht sid rail sh mlders, \ i i in trim tlu m 1 trcr w ith i ! ibbt t pi ui< .

End assembly

Grooving for the side panels The grotwes for the panels have to line up all the way around the frame. Rather than routing each piece separately and hoping that the panel grooves lined up at the corners, I dry-assembled the frame to rout grooves in it with a ii-in. slot cutter. To give the router a level platform. I put spacers on the side rails and center stile (see the top photo on the right). I also screwed a wooden block to the router subbase so I couldn't tip the router in the cut.

I rabbeted the panels on the router table and then hand planed the backs until they fit perfectly. I sanded and finished the panels with three coats of wiping varnish. I also finished the inside edges of the legs, panel rails and center stiles—all places that would be difficult to finish after the end assemblies were glued up.

Before leaping into a glue-up. I put a Ji-in.-long 14° bevel on the foot of each leg and drilled holes ior the dowel pins and the ebonv plugs used to pm the m or rise-and-tenon joints (see the drawing on p. 74). I also routed the dovetail slot at the top of the leg for the top front rail and laid out the dovetail in the rail from the slot.

Template-routing the stretchers The last piece for each side assembly was a stretcher. With so many curves and routed grooves in them, templates seemed the best way to shape the stretchers. I made the templates out of X-in. hardboard. roughing them out on the handsaw and trimming their long edges on the router table. I shaped the curves with a drum sandcr and some care hi 1 file work.

The stretchers were roughed our on the handsaw, and the templates attached with double-faced tape.Then, with a flush-, trimming bit, I cut the profiles. Using the same templates, along with a ^-in.-dia. template guide on my router base, I routed the X-in. grooves in the stretchers (see the second photo from top on the right .To make the routing easier and to give me clean stopping and starting points, I drilled holes at either end of each groove first.

ROUT THE PANEL GROOVES. The author uses shims and a block on the router base to keep the base flush with the legs. The frame is dry-assembled as he makes the cut

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