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Spline,

Vs in. x V2 in. Middle shelf for the munnn assembly (see the top right photo on p. 122).

I ripped the muntin stock on the table-saw and planed and scraped it to its final %2-in. thickness. I cut the tenons on die ends of the muntins with a small dovetail saw and fitted them to the mortises in the back of the door with a file. The half-lap joint where the two muntins cross was done on the tablesaw. After gluing in the muntin assembly and letting it dry, I planed it flush with the front of the door frame,

I cut the glass for the door, but die edges were still a bit ragged, so I cleaned them up on a belt sander clamped into my bench vise. A 100-grit belt eased the edges quickly but safely.

To hold the glass in the rabbet in the back of the door frame, I spot-glued a laminated, curved bar across the top and straight strips against die two sides and the bottom. I made the curved bar from three thm strips, using the top rail as a form and planing them flush after the glue had dried. Because these retaining bars are just glued to the frame in a few spots each, they can be pned out and the glass replaced, if necessary. When the glue had dried, I scraped, sanded and finished the door.

Location of dowel hinge holes is critical

I wanted die door on this clock to swing up rather than out, and I didn't want to mar the clock's appearance with metal hardware. My solution was to pivot, the door 011 two short sections of /it-m.-dia. dowel set into holes in the door's edge and on the inside of the clock case. The exact placement of the holes is critical, but its not difficult. Before drilling the holes in the sides of the door, I did a test with a piece of scrap the same size as my door. I wanted to be sure the door ■ wouldn't bind on the bottom edge of the front rail when opened and that it would set back X in. into the clock case.

To drill the lunge holes m the door, I used a doweling jig and a hand-held drill. I drilled the holes in the case sides 011 the drill press, shimming the underside of the thinner end to get the sides level.

The dowel 1 used was a little too fat to fit in the holes I had drilled, so 1 shaved it with a block plane before cutting it to length—about % in. to start.

I dry-fitted the door in the clock case and fine-tuned the length of the dowels with a file until I had an even reveal on both sides ol the case, without much play.

Door knob is turned from a blank ' shaped to a Morse taper The small pull is made of the same wood as the clock case. I first shaped a I-in.-sq., 3-in,-long piece of pear into a rough Morse taper, leaving about % in. at the end for the knob. I cut off the end the drive spurs had bitten into, replaced the drive center with the tapered plug and tapped it securely in place. With the end free, but secure, I turned a small knob. Then I sanded, burnished and finished it right on the lathe before cutting it free from the tapered plug with a small tenon saw,

1 marked the location of the knob mortise at the center of the bottom door rail and drilled it on the drill press. After some final fitting of the knob tenon with a file and sandpaper, I glued and clamped the knob to the door using a hand screw.

To hold the door in place when it's closed, I used a M-in. bullet catch made by Brusso and sold through many woodworking-supply catalogs. The Brusso catch is the cleanest, smallest and least intrusive one I've seen.

1 dry-assembled the clock, with the door in place. 1 he door is positioned correctly when it is set back from the front edge of the case bv % in. evenly top to bottom. I marked straight down from the front edge of the door at its center. Then 1 located the center of the bottom part of the bullet catch in. back from that mark. I centered the top part of the catch on the /¿-in.-thick door. The hole m the door can be bored freehand. But 1 drilled the hole in the bottom shelf on a drill press. Both pieces of the bullet catch can be pushed in place. No glue is needed.

Making the door

A TEMPLATE AND GUIDE SHAPE THE TOP DOOR RAIL. After bandsawing the curve in the rail to rough shape, the author routs it to finished shape.

MUNTINS ARE TENONED INTO OPEN MORTISES IN FRAME. Tap the tenons home with a small hammer and a wooden block.

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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