Sideboard Part in

Details in .1 handmad« f furnitun are what make u sm^, md «lure a fur-— ntturemaker can really have fun. In some way-s, this mahogany si as il it could have been designed bv Charles and Henrv Greene in (he early 1900s. I relied on the inlay of ebony and carved vel-i.>u iu'.ii i to mat "

Hie last two section» pp < ■> 85 , nvred construction of tin .iuasi. the web frames, which support the drawers, and the dihs. What s It I r is the top 111I, drawer pulls and door handles, and, linallv, the inlay across the front of the case. Although each of these remaining parts gave me some chance io experiment with d<sign. I ! specilib looked forv rd to the carved inlay that would simulate ginkgo leaves blowing across the face of the finished sideboard.

A Bri ad board Top Stays Flat but Allows Seasonal Movement

To keep-the top llat. I used breadboard i nds, which prei t tin 1 uj pin vet still allow it to move across its width as humidity changes. The breadboard ends were dimensioned in. thicker than the top and a little longer than the top is wide, adding shadow lines. I':> (■ : breadboard ends are flush on the bottom.

Ft join the bri idbo id top. I

along yvith .1 full-length groove 111 the ends and .1 mating tongue at eith( 1 end of the top sec the draw-ing on pp. 88-8*-) .

1 he mortises and grooves in the breadboard ends were ait on the router table. The tenons and tongue across the ends of the top, both . in. thick. wvi\ cut w ith 1 hand-held plunge router after being defined by saw kerfs. Remember that any trimming to fit must lie from the top cheek of the tenon so rhe bottoms of the breadboard ends and top remain Mush. When the tenons were finally seated. I pulled the two end pieces off and planed a slight belly along their inside edges. This spring joint ensures that the joints between top and ends remain tight.

Once the joinery was cut and fitted, I eased all exposed edges on the top and ends, except lor those where the ends meet the top. I finish-planed and then wet-sanded befort I glm d oil 11 ends. Th®, work is easy now. but a real pain later on.

Pins and Plugs Finish Top, Functionally and Decoratively

Because the top has to be able to move across its width. I couldn't glue all four tenons on each end into their respective mortises. Instead, I glued just the center two tenons and used short sections of dowel to pin all the tenons. The outer two

tenons have slotted pin holes so the top can move. I plugged all four holes at each end w ith s |ii ired i !". plugs.

With the top and breadboard ends apart. I drilled the »-m.-dia. plug holes about K ii' deep into tin ends and then squared them. These holes do not go into the mor tise. Next ! dulled -m.-dia. pin holes centered on the -in. holes through the mortises and just into the bottom halt of the breadboard ends. Then I dry-clamped the top and ends together and marked the pin locations on the tenons. I pulled the ends off, drilled the holes in the two center

INLAY IS THE FINISHING TOUCH. Carved inlay in the shape of ginkgo leaves help put the author's stamp on this mahogany sideboard. Leaves were carved and positioned to look as if they were scattered across the doors by the wind.

Sideboard Top and Back Rail

Breadboard ends keep the top fiat and create shadow lines for visual interest. The ends are pinned and plugged. The back rail is attached to the top rear rail of the carcase with a pair of brackets that are notched to fit around the overhang of the top.

24l/i m.
Top is "V» in. thicV
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