These easy-to-make cradles organize and protect sets of chisels. To cradle a flat blade, just chisel a notch in the strip. To cradle the cutting ends of gouges, drill curved notches with the appropriate Forstner bit.
drawer front, the bottom will only expand and contract front to back in the drawer. So size it to fit exactly between the grooves in the drawer sides. I use quartcrsawn wood to minimize back-to-front movement. Slide the bottom into the grooves in the sides and tack it into the drawer back. (Sec Fig. I.) Allow a little room for expansion in the groove at the front of the drawer.
Fit each drawer into its opening, planing the top edges of the back and sides if necessary to create about Vl6 in. clearance in the opening and sides, and a little less than that at the top of the drawer front. I made drawer stops as shown in Fig. 1, and glued them in place with hide glue.
I turned my own pulls for this project (see Pull Detail, Fig. 2), but you could just as easily use store-bought versions.
After planing all of the surfaces, 1 gave my box a final hand-sanding with 220-grit paper. Then my wife, Susan, finished it with four coats of Minwax Antique Oil finish. She wet-sanded the first coat with 320-grit, the second coat with 400-grit, and the last two with 600-grit. The final step was to install the lid stay and the butt hinges (available from Whitechapel, 800-468-5534). ▲
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