Now that the case is complete, I started work on the lid, see drawing at right. Just like the other parts of the case, this means you need to gfue up another panel. But the thickness oftnis panel is different: it's 1VW.
Since you lift the lid from the edges, I wanted it to overhang the case a bit. So to determine the size of the lid (T), measure the case (including the trim) and cut the lid panel 1" longer and wider.
Before planing, lay out the edges of the chamfer, see Fig. 9. Then plane down to these lines, starting with the ends of the lid. To avoid chipout, skew the plane slightly so the cut shears off thin shavings.
HINGES. When the chamfer is cut, mount the lid to the case. To do this, I used aspecial hinge. It has an offset barrel and doesn't require a mortise, see Fig. 10.
To mount the hinges, first screw them to the case. Next, set the lid on top of the case and center it side-to-side and front-to-back. Then simply trace around the barrels of the hinges on the bottom of thelid. Nowremove thelid and hinges. Then screw the hinges to'thelid'andreattachthe hinges to the case.
rud support chain. The last thing to do to ifh® M is raid fa I15H-tongfpiece of brass chain to the inside of the case, see Fig. 10. This prevents the lid from dropping back.
Safety Note: If children will be opening and closing this lid, you should protect their fingers by installing a lid support. (For sources, see page 31)
When choosing a finish for this chest, I wanted a warm, '"aged" color. But instead of trying to mimic an old finish, I decided to use the real thing: shellac.
For this chest, I applied one coat of orange shellac. The orange shellac gives the wood 'its warm color—'and' it'doesn't blotch like a normal stain will. But more than one coat makes the wood too dark.
So to keep the color lighter but still add more protection, I applied two more coats of /another '"grade" to'shellac: Monde ' shellac. (Shellac comes in several grades, see page SL) Actually, ffifs ¡isn't a different type of shellac. It has just been purified more, so there's not much color.
Shellac comes ready-to-use or in flakes ifetBMStbe dissolved in alcohol, (See page •r3i,ff0ns0urces.) Once 'dissolved,It begins to slowly deteriorate. So, I use the flakes and mix my own. This way, I know it's fresh.
Though any alcohol will work, I dissolve shellac in denatured alcohol. Shellac is mixed in "pound cuts" — the number of pounds of flakes to a gallon of alcohol. For this chest I used a 2 lb. cut. But I only mixed up a pint of each grade (which requires 4 oz. of shellac flakes) .And don't worry about being precise. lust get it in the ballpark.
Shellac doesn't dissolve like Kool-Aid. It takes several hours or more. Pour the flakes Into a non-metal container. (The shellac reacts to metal.) Then pour in the alcohol and stir it. Let it set a bit Then stir it again. It's a good idea to strain the shellac a few times before using it, see photo.
Before applying the first coat of shellac, I sanded the dovetail chest to 220-grit because the soft grain of pine tends to raise when shellac is applied.
To apply shellac, I use a natural bristle brush. The only trick is not to work the fin
ish too much with the brush. The shellac dries fast, so you can apply another coat after about three hours. Note: If the shellac seems to be drying too quickly, then thin it a little with more alcohol.
I sanded the first coat lightly with 400-grit paper. Then after the two coats of blonde shellac were applied, I rubbed out the finish with 600-grit paper.
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There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.