Door Construction

Machine Vic-in. sq. slider on top and bottom rails.

Rout Vt-ln. x '/»-In. dovetail on top and bottom rails.

Rout finger grip.

Chamfer inside edge of stile.

Glass fits in slot in stiles and rails.

Vu-IN. SHOULDER

Glue bottom rail to stiles.

Rout finger grip.

Chamfer inside edge of stile.

Glass fits in slot in stiles and rails.

Vu-IN. SHOULDER

Glue bottom rail to stiles.

inside edge of each piece to accept the glass. I used a '/.•»-in. three-wing slotting cutter on the router table, making the slots Via in. deep. Glass thickness may vary slightly from sheet to sheet, so adjust accordingly. Note that the stiles and rails are different thicknesses to provide a visual accent, so reset the cutter height as required to keep the slot centered. Cut a slight chamfer on the inside edges of the stiles with a sharp block plane. Also, cut Vi»-in. square tongues centered on the outside edges of the rails to act as sliders for the door tracks. (See Fig. 2.)

To cut the dovetail joint, I used a V«-in. dia., 9° dovetail bit and made the cuts on a router table. The ends of the stiles should fit Hush with the rails, leaving only the slider tongues protruding when the door frame is assembled. (See drawing.)

Next, rout finger grips into the stiles. I used a '/>in. dia., 14e dovetail bit and pressed a Va-in. O.D. pilot bearing on the shank. With this setup, I used a template shaped like the grip profile and made the Vn-in. deep cut in one pass. The slight undercut looks nice and provides a better grip for the fingers than a straight-sided recess. The location of the grips is arbitrary, but on mine they're centered 57/* in. from the top of the stiles.

Glue the bottom rail into the stiles with the top rail in place but unglued. The top rail is held in place with screws. I used 3-in., twin threaded, #8 drywall screws.

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