Round over top edge with '/»-in. round-over bit

If you don't have double-thread screws, which hold well in end grain, I recommend putting a '/4-in. cross dowel in the rails, so the screw can bite into long grain. (See Fig. 2.)

Cut the pieces of glass to size by adding 9/it in. to the length and width of the inside door dimensions. Sand all the members, and polish the slides with 400-grit sandpaper. Remove the top rails, and slide in the glass. Replace the top rails, and screw them in place.

A removable track at the top of the cabinet simplifies the sliding door installation. And since the tongue slider is centered, the door conceals the slot.

Cut the top door track to size, and machine slots according to the detail in Fig. 1. Locate the track Via in. inside the top front, and fasten it with countersunk l'/a-in., #8 flat head screws centered between the slots. To install the doors, seat them in the bottom slots, tip them out just enough to put the top track on, tip them back in, and screw the track in place.

The four shelves are notched to conceal the brass hangers and prevent the shelves from sliding out, as shown in Fig. 3. This means the shelves are cut full length, avoiding the usual unsightly gaps where the shelves meet the cabinet sides. Cut the notches wide enough and deep enough to match your shelf hangers.

1 routed the smoothed beveled edge on the front of the shelves in two steps, as shown in the drawing. First, I made a bevel using a 1-in. dia., 14° dovetail bit (Wisconsin Knife Works #69420, see Sources) fitted with a l'/s-in. O.D. pilot bearing, as described in the sidebar. Then I use a '/j-in. round-over bit to smooth the top edge.

Assembling the Cabinet

Sand all the parts before assembly. The cabinet can be screwed completely together (as this one is) for knockdown capability, or glued. I used 50 mm (about 2 in.), #8 funnel-head screws for all assembly. (See Sources). These screws have twin sets of threads—one low and one high —that give tremendous gripping power in a '/«-in. hole whether it's in face or end grain. The head is also designed to make its own counterbore as it's turned in.

First, locate the back frame in the bottom slot. Place the sides on next. Fit the divider into its dadoes, and put on the top. Screw and/or glue the top and bottom to the divider, and screw and/or glue the top. bottom and sides to the back frame. The divider can also be screwed through the center back stile if you want. Two or three screws per edge is sufficient, unless there's some pesky warp that needs to be pulled flat. I covered the screw heads with colored plastic caps specially designed to fit into the cross slots of Phillips-head screws. (See Sources.) You could also counter-bore and cover the screw heads with wood plugs. A

Pal Warner designs and builds furniture, writes about woodworking, and teaches courses in router techniques at Palomar College in San Marcos, California.

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