FIG. 4: SECTION THROUGH PIVOT ASSEMBLY
Tap threads in wooden knob and epoxy threaded rod in and flatten the edges with a plane for gluing to the leg assemblies.
To make the angled leg assemblies. first plane the straight edges of each leg half to the tracing lines. The legs, when glued up. are slightly splayed. To create tills effect, tilt your plane and plane each leg half to a 7l/z° angle, remembering that you have left-handed and right-handed parts. (Sec Fig. 1.)
It's important to register the leg halves for gluing so the joint will be perpendicular to the floor. To do this, lay each pair on the jig platform, with the inside faces up and the straight edges tight together, so that the bottoms are flush with the end of the platform and the scam is centered on the centerline of the jig. Hold a ruler across the seam and draw a pencil line across both halves for registration.
Now glue the halves into leg assemblies. You may find it useful to hot-glue a few T/i° clamping blocks to the outside surfaces to direct the clamping pressure squarely to the glue line.
When the glue has dried, hand-plane a 1 '/¿-in.-wide flat on the inside face of each leg assembly where the stretcher will be glued. Before gluing the stretcher to the leg assemblies, drill ^6-in. holes through the legs for the lx)Its that will hold the mirror frame in place. (Sec Fig. 1 and 4.) These holes should be at precisely the same height above the floor. (See Fig. 1.) Then set the finished stretcher on the platform of the jig with the ccnter of the ellipse on center with the jig, and mark where the stretcher ends cross the minor axis of the platform. Remove the stretcher from the platform and drill Vi«nn. holes through the stretcher ends on the minor axis marks. Then cut off the ends of the stretcher 1 in. above the holes and sand the end grain.
Cut two 4'/i-in. lengths of Vi6-in. threaded rod next. Dry-assemble the stretcher to the legs, with the threaded rods in the holes to align the parts. Check that die legs arc parallel to each other and perpendicular to the floor, adjusting the flat faces of the stretcher as needed with a plane.
Now glue the stretcher to the legs, again using your sections of threaded rod to keep the parts in alignment. This joint doesn't need splines becausc it's practically long grain. I bandsawed clamping blocks out of scraps of pine to direct the pressure and to keep my clamps from digging into the sanded faces of the legs and stretchers. (Sec-photo, opposite page.) Drill holes in the clamping blocks to accommodate the ends of the threaded rods and make clamping easier.
Finally, resolve the round-overs on the leg halves where they meet. I used chisels, scrapers, half-round flies and sandpaper to shape these areas.
Turn the knobs and spacers next. (See Fig. 4.) I applied an oil finish while the parts were still on the lathe. After turning the pieces, drill *Atr in.-dia. clearance holes in the spacers and drill and tap the knobs to receive the Vi6-in. threaded rods. Epoxy the threaded rods into the knobs as shown in Fig. 4.
If you decide to upholster your back panel, make sure the plywood blank has at least '/»-in. clcarancc around it in the mirror frame rabbet. Take the blank to a local upholsterer and have him cover it with a thin layer of Dacron padding and the fabric of your choice. The padding gives a pillowed effect to the panel.
Before trial-assembling all the parts and pieces, install the threaded inserts in the sides of the mirror frame. Clean any dried glue out of the holes in the leg/stretcher assemblies with a Vi in.-dia. drill bit. Then line up all the parts, hold the frame in position, and screw the threaded rods into the threaded inserts. If the threaded inserts in the mirror frame and the holes through the stretcher are all exactly on the minor axes of the ellipses, the gap between the mirror frame and the stretcher will be even. If it's off by an unacceptable amount, you'll have to relocate one of the holes through the leg/stretcher assembly to compensate.
When you're satisfied with the fit, disassemble the parts and apply a finish. Since the mirror isn't likely to suffer much abuse, almost any finish will be adequate. I chose three thin coats of Waterlox. After the finish dries, set the mirror in a thin, continuous bead of Lexel (available at many hardware stores). I find this clear, siliconc-likc compound has superior adhesion, but you could use silicone instead. I decided against using mechanical fasteners, assuming I won't be taking the piece apart again unless the mirror breaks, so I attached the back panel directly to the back of the mirror with several small spots of Lexel. But if you'd like to play it safer, you could devise some little clips to hold the back panel in placc. ▲
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There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.