V4-ih.20 x 4-in. si" 8roow to fit head and shank of bolt.
Glue tongue to stop block.
Machine grooves k^ before gluing halves of fence together.
After you've made the bottom frame, use it to help drill the holes in the cabinet top for the doweled locating blocks. Lay the frame on the cabinet top so the hold-down rails are aligned with the edges and the frame is a few inches from the front of the top. Place your pre-drillcd locating blocks against the hold-down rails, and mark through the holes onto the cabinet top. Now remove the locating blocks and drill the four holes in the top.
When assembling the parts of the station, glue and screw the plywood panel to the bottom frame first. Then work through this frame to screw and glue the plywood to the outfeed tables, using a straightedge to check that the tables are parallel to each other.
I used hard maple for the fences and the stop blocks, since they'll receive a lot of wear and tear. The fences arc a little longer than the support tables. This allows you to slide the stop blocks right to the ends of the tables.
I made each fence from two boards glued together. (See Fig. 1.) This way, I was able to dado the slots for the carriage bolts on my tablesaw before glue-up. To test-fit the carriage bolts, I dry-clamped the boards together and slid the bolt head through the slot.
Once you've reached this point, you can rout short slots through the sides of the fences for the bolts that hold the fences to the outfeed tables. (See Fig. 1.) These slots allow you to zero the self-adhesive tape measures with the blade. I cut the slots with a straight bit in a plunge router. Next, rout a shallow groove in the faces of the fences for the tapes, but don't install them yet.
I made the stop blocks, and glued small tongues underneath. The tongues slide in the groove at the top of the fences and keep the blocks parallel with the fences. (See Fig. 1.) I used plastic knobs for the stop blocks (available from Reid Tool Supply Co., 2265 Black Creek Rd., Muskegon, MI 49444, 800-253-0421, item *DK-71).
The flip stops need to withstand the pounding they'll get when boards are shoved against them. So instead of using cabinet-grade plywood, I laminated three layers of maple together, ori enting the middle layer cross-grain to the two outside pieces.
With the fences and stop blocks finished. you can install threaded inserts in the back of the outfeed tables to accept the bolts that hold the fences in place. Use the slots in the fences as guides to locate the threaded inserts.
Attach each fence to its outfeed table, using two '/»-in. I.I), fender washers on each bolt to create an Vfe-in. space between the fence and the table. (Sec Fig. 1.) The space allows sawdust to fall through so it won't pile up against the fence and throw a work-piece out of registration.
Now bolt your saw to the bottom frame assembly using a straightedge to line up the saw's fences with the wooden fences on the station.
After the saw is secure, attach the self-adhesive tapes. You'll need two tapes, one that reads left, and one that reads right (available from The Woodworker s Store, 21801 Industrial Blvd., Rogers, MN 55374, 612-428-3200). Align the tapes with the saw blade so you can set the flip stops accurately. To do this on the Hitachi, I measured 12 in. out from each side of the blade and made a mark on my wooden fences. Then I lined up the 12-in. marks on my tapes with the marks on my fences and attached the tapes, trimming the excess tape from
each end of the fences.
That's it. To use the station, place the locating blocks in position, set the station in place, and flip the sash catches to keep everything secure. To remove it for jobsite work, first unbolt the saw from the station to lighten the load, then release the sash catches and lift the station off the cabinet. ▲
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