Face Pute

Note: Rings should overhang Bore and countersink l/4-in. dia. hole, faceplate 1 in. or more.

Set the ring aside, and face off the remaining portion. Ik* careful not to hit the faceplate screws, bevel the shoulder of the center hole to provide the maximum grip on a round object. Repeat this beveling process on the front ring after lx>lting it bevel side up to the chuck ring with 2-in. long, '«-in. dia. round-head machine screws run through the three holes previously

Bolt must clear

| Bevel edge of enough wood for your ornaments. Since setting the saw is time-consuming, I generally run enough strips for several ornaments.

Gluing Up the Hexagonal "Log"

After crosscutting the beveled strips to length, you're ready to glue up the hexagon. Use fresh yellow glue (aliphatic resin). Old glue can be too thick to penetrate the wtxxl and may not cure well; you don't want a piece-to conic apart on the lathe.

Dry fit the pieces first. Join the sharp angles of the dark strips to create a star, then put the lighter strips between the points of the star. Once you're comfortable with the process, coat the strips liberally with glue and assemble. This job is easier with four hands.

Clamp the resulting hexagonal "log" with metal clamps made for automotive radiator hoses. Position the clamps every 4 in. to 6 in., with each clamp's screw on one of the log's flat sides. Tighten the- clamps gradually, checking strip alignment as you go. Don't worry about glue squeeze-out or clamp marks; you'll remove them later when

With tin* hall turned round,, mount it in u Mlio|»-niade chuck and horc the across holes you'll use to hollou the ornament.

you turn the ball.

I let the stock dry by the wood stove overnight, then carefully inspect the log for good glue joints. If they pass this test, I crosscut each end of the log to square up the surfaces so I can mount it between centers on the lathe. It's important to center the log accurately to minimize vibration and keep the light and dark lines of the turning symmetrical.

As a final check of lamination strength, run the blank at the lathe's low speed before you turn it. Make sure you stand clear of the line of fire-in case something lets go. When you're satisfied that the lamination is solid, turn the log to its maximum diameter, about in. to 4 in. This will produce a cylinder the color of the outer layer, divided by six thin stripes of the inner layer. (See photo, previous page.)

Turning the Ball

Now you're ready to cut the cylinder into segments long enough for mounting and turning balls. My rule of thumb is to make each ball blank as long as the diameter of the stock, plus whatever extra length I need to grip the piece in a chiKrk. I also add another inch for what I call the "oops" factor. This extra length gives me room to work safely between the lrall and die chuck.

I use a parting tool lo turn a '/¿-in. wide tenon on one end of each blank, so I can mount it in my Nova chuck. (If you don't have a Nova chuck, you can use a four-jaw chuck or other system.) After cutting the tenons, I again use a parting tool to cut part of the way through the segments, and then separate them with a handsaw or handsaw.

With this done, you can mount and turn the ball as close to round as your skills permit. (For more on turning

Author iim'i« m'xtuI olf-m>l roiiud-uo»c *cra|>ers, made from planer hladc* or high-speed Hlccl. (O llolloW tilt* ¡III«'-

When hollowing the hull, run-fully work your scrujM'r» through the window hole to avoid marring the surface around the opening.

balls, see aw *13.) I rely on both a gouge and skew to achieve the shape. Use calipers to check your progress and ensure the height of the ball is truly spherical. Tliis is important: You will be hollowing the inside on several axes determined by the outside diameter, so the closer to round the better.

When you're satisfied with the ball, sand it, then mount a to-in. bit in the tailstock and bore a hole through the center from the end. This is so you can later fasten the top and bottom decorative spindles. The holes also provide a way to remount the ball on the lathe for finish sanding.

Hollowing the Ball

Now you're ready to hollow the ball. My method is to bore several large holes, then use these openings, or windows, as points of entry for an offset scraper. After hollowing the area inside each hole, I rotate the ball in the chuck and hollow another hole.

First, you must mark the locations of the windows you will bore. Draw a line around the circumference of the ball, then index your lathe to mark eidier tliree 120° or six 60° lateral lines crossing your circumference line. (See photo, page 54.) Ideally, these lines should fall at the center of the ellipsoids you formed by turning the ball. You will drill where the lines intersect.

With your lines in place, part off the ball as close to perfectly round as jxjs.si-ble and mount it in the shop-made chuck described in the sidebar. Now center one of the window marks in the opening of the chuck and align the ball. The best approach is to snug up the chuck just finger tight and put the ball under pressure between the chuck and the tailstock. Then you can tighten

Itore out the »mall, interior ornament widi a l/i-u\. dia. hrad-point hit in u hand-held drill, as shown at left. 'Hie three hole* make it ap|H*ar that the tiny piere in also hollowed. After l>or-iug the small ornament, round off the oul.nide of tlu* drilled area and turn two decorative ends, an shown almve.

the chuck screws in sequence without moving the ball.

To check alignment, mount a I-in. dia. drill bit in the tailstock so that it's centered on a window mark and rotate the chuck by liand. If the ball is properly aligned, the window mark will remain centered rather than circling the bit point as you rotate the chuck. A bit of "Kentucky windage" may be required here to adjust the ball and bring it into alignment.

Drill the first window using the 1-in. bit in the tailstock. I rely on the '/i-in.

Itore out the »mall, interior ornament widi a l/i-u\. dia. hrad-point hit in u hand-held drill, as shown at left. 'Hie three hole* make it ap|H*ar that the tiny piere in also hollowed. After l>or-iug the small ornament, round off the oul.nide of tlu* drilled area and turn two decorative ends, an shown almve.

hole drilled through the original axis as a depth guide and bore slightly beyond this point.

Next, back off the tailstock and carefully Iregin turning away the interior material through the window. (See photo, previous page.) 1 use both a standard Vin. wide round-nose scraper and a custom-made offset (bent) round-nose scraper with a Vu.-in. cutting radius. (Sec inset photo.) The smaller cutting surface creates less drag and doesn't generate enough torque to spin the ball in the chuck. Clean up the cuts carefully with the wider scraper.

Catching an edge now will create a glaring blemish so pay particular attention to the surfaces surrounding the window. Also, any further work on this area will be difficult. A little grinding and polishing on the lower right edge of your scrapers will help prevent catching.

Once you have removed as much as you comfortably can through one window, move to the next I -in. hole and repeat the procedure. Continue until all windows are hollowed and the wall of the ball is about XM in. thick. CAUTION: the ball becomes more fragile as it's hollowed and can easilv be crushed

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Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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