Cutting Diagram

,3/i6" X SVi" - 36"

1 j A V

(/////

n/n/uu

B,p„l f

n„

->

mm

2zzzzzzzzzzzzzz

2zzzzzzzzzzzzzz actually allows a Vie" gap between the edge of the panel and the bottom of the groove on all sides of the panel, see Fig. 3.)

cutting the shoulders. Next rabbets are cut on both sides of all four edges of the panels to form tongues that fit in the grooves in the frames. As shown in Fig. 3, the depth of these rabbets should leave a tongue that's just thick enough to fit snugly in the groove.

The width of the rabbet accounts for 3/i6" that fits in the groove and another Vfe" as a shoulder to define the field of the panel. This means the rabbets are a total of wide on all three panels.

rounding over. Finally, to soften the edges of the panels, I rounded over the shoulders of the rabbets. To do this, remove the pilot from the %" quarter-round bit and guide the panel over the bit using the fence on the router table, see Fig. 4. Note: Both sides of the panel for the lid (F) are visible, so the shoulders on both sides should be rounded.

ASSEMBLY OF THE FRAMES

I also rounded the inside edges of the frames to match the panels. This is a little difficult because it must be done before the joints are glued together. If the joints fit good and tight, the inside edge can be rounded over on the router table with a %" quarter-round bit and pilot, see Fig. 5. However, if the joints are loose, you'll have to clamp the frame together with bar clamps before routing, or use a file and sandpaper to round-over the edges.

Before assembly, I finish-sanded all surfaces of the frames and the panels and got ready to glue them together. However, there's one small problem during assembly.

As the frames are glued together, the tongues of the panels can not be glued into the grooves (they must be free to expand/ contract). However, if the panels are free to move, they will slide to the bottom of the frames and be off center.

To solve this problem, I spot-glued the panels into the grooves. A small amount of glue is applied to a W area at the center of the two end-grain tongues, see Fig. 6. This holds the panels in place^ but also allows them to expand/contract in width.

outside edges. After the frames are glued up, the outside corners are rounded to a Yz" radius. Then all the outside edges are rounded over with a %" quarter-round bit. But don't do this rounding-over just yet. You need square edges to get the measurements for the next set of mortises.

mortises for the tray. The two side frames have W'-wide mortises for the back (G) and the tray front (H). These mortises are positioned so they don't interfere with the corner joints, see Fig. 6. Once they're cut, you can move on to the inside pieces of the case.

FIGURE 1

1 Va"

7'

/«" PANEL

1 VA"

55/e"

3 Va"

PANEL

3 Va"

5Vs"

S

K/" FIGURE 4

FENCE OF

ROUTER TABLE

PANEL

-"Vs" QUARTER ROUND BIT

WITH PILOT REMOVED f

ROUND CORNERS TO '/a" RADIUS

FIGURE 3

ROUND CORNERS TO '/a" RADIUS

ALLOW Vt6 ' FOR EXPANSION

ROUT INSIDE EDGE OF FRAME WITH >/»" QUARTER ROUND BIT

ALLOW Vt6 ' FOR EXPANSION

FIGURE 5

ROUT INSIDE EDGE OF FRAME WITH >/»" QUARTER ROUND BIT

FIGURE 6

Va l7/ii"

-'/«" SHOULDER TO DEFINE FIELD OF PANEL

MORTISE '/a" DEEP

PANEL

/

MORTISE Va" DEEP

DRAWER RUNNER-

1 Vi"

THE TRAY

When this case is closed, it looks like there are two drawers. However, only the bottom half is a drawer. The top half is actually a tray that holds the two side frames together.

The tray front (H) and back (G) are cut to width and length (allowing for the tenons), see Fig. 7. Then tenons are cut in both pieces to fit the mortises already in the side frames. However, the position of these tenons is critical. The tenons must be cut so the final position of the top edges of the tray front (H) and back (G) allow enough space for the lid.

That is, you need to allow 13/i6" for the thickness of the lid, plus another Vs" between the lid and the top edge of the side frame, or a total of 15/W'. This means the top shoulder of the tenon is 9/ie" deep.

groove. Next, a Vt" x W groove is cut on both pieces for the plywood tray bottom (M). Set up the saw to cut this groove 2" from the top edge of both pieces.

tray sides. Finally, rabbets are cut on the inside corners of both pieces for the tray sides, see Detail in Fig. 7. However, before cutting these rabbets, it's best to cut the tray sides (J) first so you know what their final thickness will be, and thus the final dimensions for the rabbets.

I thought it would look much better if the tray sides were fairly narrow, so I resawed a piece of 13/ie"-thick stock. This is simply a matter of ripping on edge to yield two pieces about W thick.

After the sides are cut, the rabbets can be cut on the inside corners of the tray front and the back.

assembly. Finally, all of these pieces can be glued and clamped to the side frames. (As mentioned above, round over the edges of the side frames before final assembly.)

the drawer. All that remains is to build the drawer. Since there's only one small drawer, it might be nice to use hand-cut dovetails (see Woodsmith No. 19). However, we're showing a much easier joint — a simple rabbet and groove, see Fig. 9. (The joint for the front is a half-blind version of this joint.)

Before assembling the drawer, rout a %"-wide groove in the drawer sides for drawer runners. Then, after the drawer is assembled, the drawer runners are cut and screwed to the side frames.

finger lip. The last step is to mount the lid. I cut mortises in the back (G) and the lid for Vs" x 2" butt hinges, see Fig. 10. Before mounting the lid, I also routed a finger lip on the front edge, see Fig. 11.

finishing. To finish this case, I applied two coats of thinned-down white shellac (3 lb.-cut shellac thinned 50/50 with denatured alcohol). Finally, I applied a coat of Renaissance wax.

FIGURE 8

FIGURE 10

MORTISE FOR V," x 2" BUTT HINGE

FIGURE 8

ALLOW ENOUGH SPACE FOR LID PLUS '/»"

SCREWED TO RAILS

FIGURE 9

DRAWER BACK RESTS

ON DRAWER BOTTOM

6 DEEP

GROOVE FOR DRAWER RUNNER

FIGURE 9

DRAWER BACK RESTS

ON DRAWER BOTTOM

6 DEEP

GROOVE FOR DRAWER RUNNER

Talking Shop

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