Ready to tackle the molding on these bookends? Dont worry. There s nothing here that's going to throw you a curve.

Every woodworker who sees these bookends asks the same question: "How did you do it?" You've got to admit, the answer isn't exactly obvious. Even though you know the top hasn't been literally bent into its curved shape, there aren't many clues that might suggest how it's done.

One of the tricks is to work with oversized pieces. After a little shaping, some molding pieces are mitered to wrap around the body (which is also oversized). Then you begin the process of cutting and sanding the curve on the top. And to hide the evidence, a piece of veneer is simply glued to the top. It's a fairly straightforward process for creating a pretty impressive detail.

FINISHING OPTIONS. From the start, I decided to paint these bookends. And as you can see in the photos, there's more than one way to do this. Your choice of paint may affect the materials you use, so it's a good idea to take a look at the finishing article on page 22 before getting started.

BODY. Regardless of the finish you use, I'd

This project is a great one for trying a faux finish, see page 22.


• (2) Non-Slip Tape (4V4" x A3/4") *Note: Materials are for 1 pair of bookends recommend V4'1 MDF for the body, as shown in Fig. 1. This isn't just because MDF is cheaper — it's also more stable. Changes in humidity aren't going to cause it to expand and contract over time and work the molding joints loose. Plus, MDF provides a good surface for paint.

The body starts out as five body blanks (A) that are glued together. Fig. 1 shows the final size, but you'll want the rough blanks a bit larger. (Mine were 4" x 8V2") After the glue dries, the body can be ripped to width (33/4"), but it should be left long (8") until the molding is added.

Trimming the body is easier said than done. It's too large for a single pass at the table saw (and may even be too big to crosscut with some miter saws). So you'll need to make two passes, as shown in Fig. 2 at right. Then to remove any shoulders or saw marks, you might want to do a little sanding. I did this with some adhesive-backed sandpaper placed on a flat surface (like a table saw), as shown in the margin photo.

ROUT FLUTES. When the body is cut to size, all that's left is to rout some flutes on the front edge. I did this with a 3/8"-dia. core box bit at the router table, as in Fig. 3. You don't even need to get out your ruler to set the fence. Just center the bit on a joint line and make two passes, flipping the body end for end between passes. Then reset the fence and rout the other pair of flutes.

BASE. At this point, the body is done, and you're ready to work on

Adhesive-backed sandpaper on a table saw makes a flat surface for sanding the ends of the body blank.

Center bit on joint lines

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Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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