NOTE: Test fit drawers before gluing guides in place
Drawer notched at back to fit over runner
Building the lid will "top" off the chest It's just a solid wood frame that captures a plywood panel with a simple tongue and groove joint. If s got a couple details you'll notice, a bullnose on the frame and a narrow shadow line around the panel (Fig. 13d).
PANEL. I started by cutting the center lid panel (Z) to size from 3/4M plywood. All it requires is a few rabbets you can cut with a dado blade. First on the top face of the panel, cut the W-deep rabbet that creates the shadow line. And next you can create the centered W tongue. Just take a look at Figs. 13a and 14a, and you'll see what you need to do here.
FRAME. The panel is now ready to be framed. First the lid frame front (AA), sides (BB), and back (CC) can be cut to size from 3/4,!-thick stock. (For this frame, they're all the same width.) Next, the pieces need a V4'1 centered groove to match the tongue on the lid panel. By this point you know what to do here (Fig. 13b). Again, the important thing is to get a snug fit. When the grooves are cut, the pieces could be fit around the panel. But I wanted to rout the bullnose on the front and sides first. As you can see in Fig. 13c, it's just like the base frame.
FITTING THE FRAME. Fitting the frame to the panel isn't hard. And with the tongue and groove joint to support the frame, the job is a lot easier. But you want to do this carefully.
The front and sides are pretty straightforward. I just mitered them at the front to fit around the panel. But there's a little trick to fitting the stub-tenoned back piece. The first thing you want to do is clamp the side pieces in place on the panel and measure for the length of the back
piece. Gust measure from bottom of groove to bottom of groove.)
With the back piece cut to size, you can fit the stub tenon in two steps. Start by sneaking up on the thickness of the tenon, leaving the length a little short. When it fits snug in the groove, you can sneak up on the length until you get a good tight fit between the sides.
GLUE-UP. Before you get into the glue up, there are a couple things to consider. The first is whether or not to stain the shadow line (see page 23). And the second is how to avoid having to clean glue squeeze-out from the shadow line. To prevent this, I just put glue in the groove and only on the bottom of the tongue.
HINGES. Now the mortises for the hinges can be cut as in Fig. 15. And for some online tips for this procedure, see the box below right.
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