the base (Fig. 1). Mine is V^'-thick cherry, but if you're going to paint the entire bookend, then you can use almost any V21'-thick hardwood. (I'd recommend you avoid "open grain" woods like oak and ash. You can't paint over them as smoothly as you can "fine grain" woods like cherry, maple, and poplar.)
The base (B) is cut to extend past the body V2" on the front and sides. If you're not going to paint the base, you'll want to make note of its grain direction, as shown in Fig. 1.1 oriented the piece this way so it would match the grain of the top veneer that's added later.
ROUT PROFILE. The base is routed on three sides. And I did this with a "Classical Cove & Bead" bit (refer to page 35 for sources). But you could also use a Roman ogee bit, as shown in the margin at right. To orient the profile correctly, the base piece needs to stand on edge when routing, as in Fig. 4.1 took light passes to avoid chipout, sneaking up on the final depth of the cut by adjusting the fence to expose more of the bit.
Finally, you can screw the base to the body so the back edges are flush, as in Fig. 5. But don't use any glue. The bookends will be easier to finish if you can remove the base.
Adhesive-backed sandpaper on a table saw makes a flat surface for sanding the ends of the body blank.
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