End View

the workpiece. That way, when the edges are routed, any chipout will be cleaned up by the bit.

The second plates to make are the bullnose trim plates (E). You'll only need two of these for each post, and they're slightly larger (55/8M) than the other plates. To rout this profile, I used a V2" round-over bit and raised it Vg" above the table, as you can see in Fig. 4d.

When all the plates have been routed and sanded smooth, you can begin to attach them to the post. Start by gluing up four pairs, centering one ogee plate on each bullnose plate. Then screw these pairs to the ends of the posts.

At this point, you should still have two ogee plates left over. These will go on top of the posts to cover up the screws in the bullnose trim plates. But the trouble is keeping each plate centered and clamping it to the top of a post that's nearly five feet tall. To see a couple of tricks for getting around these problems, check out the box at left.


For more on making the arch-top rail and molding, see page 16


Blank for top rail starts out 12" wide, molding blank starts out 7%" wide


With the posts com-plete, you're ready to work on the frame, as shown in Fig. 5. Here, the top rail with its arched molding is pretty impressive, but don't overlook the frame itself. As you can see in the photo, all the rails, stiles, and posts have been assembled with grooves and loose splines. A slot cutter bit is all that's needed for this construction, which means you don't have to wrestle with large pieces at your drill press (to drill mortises) or your table saw (to cut tenons). All in all, it's a pretty easy way to create a large frame, even if the joinery isn't exactly traditional.

TOP RAIL. The first part of the frame to work on is the arched top rail (F), as in Fig. 5. To cut the curve in this piece, you'll need to start out with a 5/4 blank that's 12" wide. (If you need to glue up two pieces to get this width, you'll want to match the grain as closely as possible so the joint line doesn't stand out.)

While cutting the top rail to rough width and final length, you might as well cut the bottom rail (G) to size

To hold this headboard together, matching grooves are cut on each piece. Then they're connected with loose splines.

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