When the case was completed, I decided to work on the drawers next. As you can see in Fig. 10, they're pretty standard. The only thing a little unique are the slotted guides attached to the bottoms (Fig. 12).
DOVETAILS. To start on the drawers, first cut the drawer sides (T) and the fronts and backs (U) to size from V2" maple. (I gave the drawers a Vie" clearance on all sides.)
Once the dovetails are routed, you can cut the grooves for the drawer bottoms. To keep the bottoms from rattling, I sized the grooves to the W plywood I was using. Also remember that you'll need to fit a 5/i6n-thick guide underneath the bottoms (Fig. 12). Now I thought a little bit ahead and drilled the mounting holes for the false fronts. At this point all that's left is to cut the bottoms (V) to size and glue up the drawers.
GUIDES. The next step is to make and install the wood drawer guides. There's nothing difficult here, but you do want to take a little care with this so the drawers will slide easily.
I started by cutting the guide (W) blanks to width and length from 5/i6n maple (1%. 12). Next, you'll want to cut the centered groove carefully. A long push block makes this job a lot safer (Fig. 11). The goal is for the guides to slide easily on the runners but without too much play.
With the guides made, you'll still need to cut an oversized notch at the back of the drawers to make this "system" work (Fig. 12a). And then before they're fit, I also like to mark my drawers (left and right). Now you can use some carpet tape to hold the guides while you test the fit of the drawers in their openings.
FRONTS. After the guides are fit and glued in place, there're just a couple things left. The false fronts (X) need to be added to the drawers. But first they get a W ogee fillet (Fig. 10a).
Finally, add the stops (Y) and the stem bumpers (Fig. 10). The pulls are installed after the finish.
NOTE: Test fit drawers before gluing guides in place
Drawer notched at back to fit over runner
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