r edesigning the headboard with a straight top rail and molding didn't take a lot of work. However, when you start to build the headboard without the curves, you realize just how much this design modification simplifies the procedure.
Actually, the overall procedure doesn't really change that much. You still start out by building the two posts, and they're sized exactly the same as before (refer to page 8).
With the posts built, the first thing to do on the frame is cut the rails to size, as shown in Fig. 1. The bottom rail (G) doesn't change at all, but the top rail (F) certainly does. I still cut it oversized so the top edge could be cleaned up after the molding was added later. But for the straight-top version, the rail only needs to be 61/-!"-wide to start off with. (It'll end up 6" wide.) And of course, there's no curve to lay out and cut along the bottom edge.
As for the molding, I still started out with a fairly wide blank (about 6"). This way, after safely routing the ogee fillet profile on one edge, I could rip it 15/8m wide and still use the cut off piece to make the stiles.
Now the top rail and molding can be glued together. (If you don't have enough clamps, you could make both blanks a bit wider and then screw them together through the waste section.) And when the glue is dry, this rail assembly can be ripped to final width (6").
To complete the frame, all that's left is to add the outer (I) and inner stiles (K). But as you
can see in Fig. 1, the stiles can all be cut to the same length. (They're still different widths, as before.) This means there's no custom fitting that needs to be done to the inner stiles. Then when assembling the frame, you can work with all the rails and stiles at one time or glue it up in two stages.
With the frame glued up and the posts added, you're ready to work on the panels. You still have wide panels to glue up, but with a straight top rail, cutting the panels to finished size can be done much more quickly. Again, there aren't any curves, and all three panels are the same height (length) •
Even the W plywood back is more straightforward. It's simply cut to overlap the frame opening and screwed in place.
As you can see, this headboard is a bit easier to build than the curved one — and it's still an impressive project.
Ifistraight and square' has become routine, heres a new twist: Build a curved rail — and add some matching arched molding.
m ost of the time, the "goal" in woodworking is to build a project as straight and square as possible. So if s a nice change of pace when you're able to build a project that has curves as part of its design. Arched molding (like the molding on the headboard and the bookends in this issue) is one use of curves that's certainly eyecatching — and it's not as difficult to achieve as you might think.
Even though the final results look different, the arched molding procedures for the headboard and book-ends are similar. To show you how to make arched molding here, I'll walk you through the process used for the top rail on the headboard. To see how it's applied to the book-ends, refer to page 20. Between the two projects, you'll find all the techniques you need for applying arched molding to your own projects.
OVERSIZED BLANK. The place to start is with the "base" piece the molding will be glued to. It may be a rail, as on the headboard, or a body, as on the bookends. This piece should start out oversized in either width or length, and if there's any joinery that needs to be cut, it should be done before the molding is added.
For the headboard, I started with the top rail blank, as in Fig. 1 at right. It was cut to final length but was left extra wide (12"). And before the joinery could be cut, I had to create the curve on its bottom edge.
To create the large curve on this rail, you'll need a half pattern. It's not hard to draw this curve yourself (refer to page 23), but you can also purchase a full-size half pattern on our web site (see the box on page 7).
I like to draw both the upper and lower curves on the blank, but for now, just the bottom curve is cut out. To do this, I used a band saw, a
File spans \ small dips and bumps ;
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