Blank for molding

The curved molding on the top of the bookends wraps around three sides of the body. To see how this is done, turn to page 20.

Screws can be used to secure blanks during assemb1"

Upper curves cut after blanks are glued together

Top rail blank (base piece)

drum sander, and a file. And since you'll be creating this curve quite a few times in building the arched molding, it's covered in more detail in the box on the opposite page.

Once the curve was sanded, you can cut the joinery on the top rail blank. Here, this was just a matter of routing grooves with a hand-held router, refer to Fig. 6 on page 10.

MOLDING BLANK. With the joinery cut on the top rail blank, it can be set aside while you work on the molding, as in Fig. 1. Like the rail, the molding starts out as an extra-wide blank (73/8M) • This makes it easier and safer to work with. Plus, if you size the molding blank carefully, the top (straight) edges of the two blanks will line up later when it's time to glue them together.

There are just two things to do to the molding before it's ready to be glued to the rail blank. First, the lower curve of the molding is cut to shape. (If the base workpiece isn't curved, like the body on the book-ends, then you'll need to make a template or pattern now.) The second thing to do is rout the profile on the curved edge of the molding.

For the headboard, the molding blank starts out 7%" wide. Its curve is laid out and cut on the bottom edge, just like the top rail blank, as in Fig. 1 and the box at left.

To create the profile on the edge of the molding, it's routed from right to left at the router table, as in Fig. 2. (You'll have to use the bearing to guide the blank.) Chipout is the big concern at this point, so to prevent it, I routed the profile in shallow passes, raising the bit each time.

ASSEMBLY. Now the molding blank can be glued to the base blank. The important thing is to make sure the curved edge of the molding ends up the right distance up from the bottom (curved) edge of the base blank (in case the top, square edges don't line up). With large pieces, you can

Joinery cut before adding molding blank

NOTE: Queen-size rail is 56"long, king-size rail is 68' long use screws in the waste sections to "clamp" the pieces together. Just try to avoid getting excess glue along the curve of the molding. It would be difficult to clean up.

FINAL SHAPING. The last step is to shape the upper edge of the assembly. To match this curve to the lower edge of the molding, I used a compass, as in Fig. 3. Then the curve can be cut as described earlier. Once the curve is sanded smooth, the molding blank is usually done.

For the headboard, however, you'll also need to add a bullnose profile to the front of the molding. This has to be done by hand. First I drew some guide lines, as shown in Fig. 4. Then the bullnose can be created by filing away at the corners, as you can see in Fig. 5. (It's a good idea to protect the routed profile with a layer or two of masking tape.)

With a little sanding, the arched molding is complete. Then you can step back and admire your work. S3

To avoid chipout, rout profile in light passes

Draw layout lines

NOTE: Bullnose must be created by hand, see Fig. 5

Draw centerline of bullnose on face

Draw layout lines

NOTE: Bullnose must be created by hand, see Fig. 5

Set compass to draw layout lines

Draw centerline of bullnose on face

NOTE: Body starts out as five 3A" MDF blanks (4" x 8V2")

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