Making Bracket Feet

The graceful bracket feet help give the chest its really distinctive look. And when you make them, you'll find it isn't nearly as hard as you might think. As the figures below show, there's no carving involved. I just used a table saw, a band saw, a block plane, and some sandpaper to shape them.

These are the same feet I used for the "Bedside Chest" in Woodsmith No. 139. This issue has step-by-step instructions on how to make bracket feet. Or if you have internet access, the article can be downloaded. If you want less of a challenge, check out the "ogee" base on page 34.

Glued up blank s-for feet

For a limited time, you can download a free pattern and a step-by-step article on how to make your own bracket feet at: w^fernith

Nibble away waste in multiple passes


/cove in I multiple passes i

NOTE: Scalloped, shape of foot -o cut on band saw*

Dado blade~\

Cut to waste side of line


With the base frame and feet added, the case is taking shape. Making and installing the moldings around the top, the bottom, and the front panels will really dress it up. These moldings look a bit complicated, but all you need to make them are a couple of "special profile" router bits and a little time at the router table.

CAP & BASE MOLDING. I decided to work on the base molding (P) and the cap molding (Q) first. Since the only real difference between the two moldings is their width, I could take a little shortcut. As you can see in Fig. 9a, I made both moldings together from a single blank.

You can get started by cutting a 3"-wide piece of 3/4M-thick stock to the length that you'll need. Then it's just a matter of routing the profile on both sides with shallow passes (Figs. 9 and 9a). To complete the moldings, just cut them to width on the table saw. (Note that it's safer to cut the narrow molding first.)

INSTALLATION. When I had the moldings in hand, I fit the base molding first. As Figs. 8 and 8a show, it's just mitered to fit around the front and sides — flush with the back — and then glued and nailed in place. (I like to use a brad nailer for this.)

Next comes the cap molding. Take a look at Fig. 8b to see how it fits — sitting on the top edge of the case and overhanging on both sides.

If you just think back to the base frame, you'll get the idea on the installation. When the pieces have been cut to fit, adding them one at a time makes it a pretty simple job. I just made sure the side pieces fit flush to the back edge of the case and all the pieces had an even 3/ie" overhang on the inside (Fig. 8b). There's one last thing. The cap back (R) fits between the sides, overhanging only on the inside (Fig. 8d).

PANEL MOLDING. I added some panel molding to complement the drawer fronts. When you look at the box at right, you'll see it's not hard to make. But I took my time fitting it. It's one of the focal points of the chest, so you want it to look good. And with just glue to hold it, the fit needs to be tight (Fig. 8c).

Butt joint at

Butt joint at

Table Saw Cove Molding
Cap and base molding made

Va Roman from blanJ^ ogee bit

Moldings cut to size after both edges are routed

Moldings cut to size after both edges are routed

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Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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