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Stay to waste side of compass line

As you lay the veneer down, make sure its grain runs from curved edge to curved edge (Fig. 14). This way, it'll almost form itself to the curves.

Trimming the veneer isn't a problem either. In fact, you could do the entire thing with a sanding block, though I trimmed just the curved edges this way. For the straight ones, I used a sharp utility knife. Then I finished the project (see the tips on page 22) and added the non-slip tape in the photo below. S3

To prevent the bookends from sliding under the weight of books, I added adhesive-backed non-slip tape that's made for stair treads.

Waste

Set compass to create V2"-thick molding

Waste

Stay to waste side of compass line

V4" grid

at 100%

NOTE: I

Position pattern Va" from end of curved molding blank, see photo on page 20

Position flush with back edge at 100%

V4" grid

NOTE: I

Position pattern Va" from end of curved molding blank, see photo on page 20

Position flush with back edge

Finishing Technique

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The top and base of the bookends were given a clear top coat and then masked off But be sure to give the finish plenty of time to dry before applying the tape.

Quick Pro Paint Tips

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^|pray painting is easy, kJ right? Just shake, point, and spray. But if you've ever ended up with runs or accidentally sanded down to bare wood, you know that there's more to a smooth, consistent spray finish than just pointing a can in the right direction. Here are five quick "tips" to consider the next time you're finishing with spray paint.

1. REMOVE PARTS. Whenever you can, remove a part (like a door or top) before you start to paint. Flat surfaces are easier to cover evenly than inside corners. Just don't forget to cover any surfaces that will need to be glued later.

On the bookends I was able to unscrew the base, which meant one less area that needed to be masked.

2. PUTTY FILLER. Don't be fooled into thinking a coat of paint is going to hide scratches or dents. The uniform color of paint on a flat, smooth surface will actually "telegraph" these blemishes. So don't rush the sanding process.

I didn't end up with any scratches or dents on the bookends. If I had, I would have used automotive glazing and spot putty — it doesn't shrink.

3. CHOOSE THE RIGHT PAINT. You have two choices when using spray paint:

enamel and lacquer. Enamel is more durable, and I'll use it if a project is going to be handled or sit outdoors. But enamel is less convenient to work with. You have to recoat within one hour or wait several days. For the bookends, I chose lacquer because I could apply a lot of coats quickly.

4. PROTECT THE CORNERS. Anytime you're sanding primer or paint, try to avoid the corners of a project. You can cut through to the wood a lot quicker along an edge because it's easy to "roll over" the corner and apply more pressure along that point.

5. APPLY A CLEAR COAT. After I've applied several coats of paint, I like to follow up with three or four layers of a clear coat. It simply adds to the protection and can even provide depth to the finish. ¡S3

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