Cut the Tongue. To cut the tongues on the panels, bury a dado blade in an auxiliary fence attached to your hp fence.

Center Groove. To center the groove on the thickness of the stock, flip the workpiece end for end between passes.

torn are added to finish it off. The only thing that is a bit unusual about the case is the front edge molding. It has a profile to match the curve of the door. But I'll explain more about that later.

SIDES. For now, you can start by making the two frame and panel sides. As you can see in the main drawing on this page, there's nothing tricky here — just a pair of stiles joined by a top and bottom rail. Stub tenons and grooves are used to join the frame pieces (detail 'a'). And the solid wood panels are held in the frames with tongue and groove joints (see How-To box at left),

The side panels fit flush with the rails and stiles, with a Vie" shadow line all around. But to give the panels room to expand and contract inside the frame, I made the tongues along the edges of the panels slightly shorter than the tongues on the ends. You can see what I'm talking about in the detail drawings above.

Once the frames are glued up around the panels, you'll need to cut a rabbet along the back edge of each side to hold a back that is added later (see detail'c') A second rabbet cut along the front stiles creates a tongue for attaching the

From a construction standpoint, the gently-curved doors on this cabinet may seem a little intimidating at first glance. But don't be fooled. Yes — making curved doors does require a little extra work compared to flat doors. But as you'll discover, it's not nearly as complicated as it looks. And if you look past the doors for a minute, the rest of the case is pretty much like any other cabinet.

CASE. The case of the cabinet is made up of two sides joined by three dividers. Then a top and bot-

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