9Lay out the haunch and bottom of the tenon. Stand one rail on a mortise and transfer the layout lines.To aid in leveling the joint later on, position the rail 1/32 in. above the leg's end.
Make ■ two rip cuts using the bandsaw and a fence. With a sharp blade, the cut surfaces will be sufficiently straight and smooth for a good joint. Use a stop block to avoid cutting too far.
n Crosscut the haunch using a miter gauge. The haunch should be 1/32 in. or so shorter than the depth of the mortise's groove. This ensures that the rails' shoulders butt against the leg.
iPare the .small shoulder below the tenon. One advantage of a haunched joint is that you don't have to pare end grain above the tenon, too. Bevel the tenon to make glue-up easier.
er and rail. Set aside the spacer. Stand the rail on the support board again and clamp the rail to the jig. Remove the support and saw the tenon's other cheek (Photo 7).
Cut off the waste pieces on the bandsaw and test the tenon's fit. It should slide into the mortise without much resistance. If it's too tight, plane or joint the spacer to make it thinner. If the mortise is looser than the thickness of a piece of paper, add masking tape or paper to the spacer to make it thicker. Cut another test piece before sawing your project's pieces.
Cut the Shoulders and Haunch
Saw the tenon's shoulders (Photo 8). Depending on whether your tenon is centered or not, you may have to adjust the blade's height for each side.
Use the bandsaw to cut out the haunch and the tenon's bottom edge. Transfer the leg's gauge lines to the Lenon (Photo 9). Set up the handsaw's fence and a stop block to make these two rip cuts (Photo 10). Use a miter gauge and stop block to crosscut the haunch (Photo 11). A single setup will work for both ends of the rail for all three cuts.
At the bottom of the tenon, you're left with only a small sliver to crosscut. It's difficult to bandsaw this piece precisely flush with the tenon's shoulders, so it's best to make the cut slightly proud. After you're done sawing, clamp the rail in your bench and pare this shoulder with a chisel (Photo 12). At the same time, bevel the ends of the tenon to make it easier to insert into the mortise during glue-up.
It's best to take the glue-up in stages, first gluing opposite pairs of legs and rails. When these assemblies are dry, clamp them in your bench and even up the tops of the rails with the legs (Photo 13). Plane in from each end, so you don't chip off part of the leg.
The rails X vJshould be proud after gluing. Plane them flush.This safety margin avoids having to level the leg's tough end grain, in case the rails ended up too low.
f 1/32" PROUD
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Crazy Mistakes Woodworkers Make
When I found out my wife was pregnant with our first child, I decided to make a cradle. Nine months seemed like plenty of time, but naturally, I finished building the cradle with only a week to spare. I decided to apply the oil finish outside, thinking it would speed up the drying time, so I could apply additonal coats faster. Also, I figured, the cradle wouldn't reek of freshly-applied finish when it went into use. After rubbing on the first coat of oil, I went back inside to clean up my shop.
I live two blocks from the ocean. Along with the wonderful breezes come large birds with accurate aim. Not only did a seagull get my cradle, it successfully unloaded two full shots! Needless to say, my wife laughed while I cried. Another day in the shop, and now the cradle is safely drying inside, awaiting our imminent new arrival.
Eyeing a unique piece of exotic wood I'd acquired, I decided to build a commemorative box for a good friend who was retiring. The box would have a framed glass lid, which I planned to create by cutting the box apart after gluing it together with the glass installed.
I began work on the box while waiting for the glass company to cut a special piece of decorative glass. After carefully cutting the board so the grain would flow around the comers, I routed thé dovetailed corner joints and cut arcs in all four sides to give the box integral feet. I routed grooves for the bottom and the glass, and applied a clear lacquer finish on all the parts.
I picked up the glass the night before the luncheon, and headed to my shop with no time to spare. After assembling the first three pieces, I slid the bottom and the glass into their grooves to check the fit. PERFECT. But when I tried to install the final piece, it wouldn't go—I'd routed the grooves on the wrong face.
CNN reported a sonic boom that shattered glass and windows in Helena,
J roster Mayo
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Wood finishing can be tricky and after spending hours on building your project you want to be sure that you get the best outcome possible. In The Complete Guide To Wood Finishing you will learn how to get beautiful, professional results no matter what your project is, even if you have never tried your hand at wood finishing before. You will learn about every step in the wood finishing process from a professional wood finisher with years of experience.