veneer is 3/16 in. thick, making the final side 7/8-in. thick (Photo 3). Trim the sides to final length.
5) Cut the plywood parts (B1 and B3 to B6). This cabinet projects only 3 in. beyond the tall cabinets, so there's no need to veneer the entire sides. You only need a 4 in. strip of veneer (B2, Fig. A). This veneer is let into a wide rabbet, which you can make on the tablesaw using a dado set (Photo 4). Clean up the rabbet with a block plane, if necessary.
6) Cut the veneer to size and plane it as thick as the rabbet is deep. Glue one piece to each side (Photo 5).
Join and Assemble
7) Cut the plywood parts for the upper unit (U1 to U4).
8) Rout dadoes and rabbets in all the cabinet's sides (Fig. C, D and E). Although the back for each cabinet is 1/2 in. thick, make its rabbets 5/8-in. wide. This allows for a 1/8-in. flange behind the back that can be scribed and trimmed later, so each cabinet can follow the contour of the wall when it is installed.
9) Glue and clamp the tops, fixed shelves and bottoms to the sides of all four cabinets. Drill holes for shelf supports before installing the backs, for easier access. For the upper unit, offset the holes in the divider (U4) by about 1/2 in. to the left or right or they will run into each other.
3Here's one bookmatched panel, close up. When sycamore is quartersawn, you can clearly see its numerous ray cells scattered all over the surface.They give the wood an almost textured look.
4The sides of the middle base cabinet are veneered, too, but not all the way across. Only a few inches of the sides project beyond the tall outer cabinets. Cut a wide rabbet to receive a 4-in. strip of veneer.
Fig. B backside of doors pi Glue the veneer onto the rabbet.This side is too wide *_yto run through the planer after glue-up, so thickness-plane the veneer beforehand.
6Pin-nail solid sycamore face frames to the cabinet sides.The center base unit's face frame extends above the cabinet's sides.This hides the front edge of a plywood subtop.
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