11. With the interior work complete, it's time to turn the outside of the body. First, turn a small cork-shaped block of wood to fit the hole in the mill body (Photo 8). This allows you to use the tailstock to support the body. On some lathes, there may be a tapered cone area on the tailstock's center that will fit the 1-1/16-in. hole. There are also large after market cones available that function much like the wooden cork.
12. With the wooden cork in place, bring the tailstock up and turn the body to the desired shape. I like to make the diameter of the body larger at the base than at the top, with a nice inward curve in the middle for the hand. This general shaping is done with a spindle-roughing gouge (Photo 9).
IB. Use a detail-spindle gouge or a skew chisel to do the detail work. I often turn one to three beads at the base of the body, and
5 Scrape the end grain on the bottom of the mill body flat and clean with a skew chisel. Use a light touch and keep the skew flat and horizontal on the rest.
6Mount the waste block in the scroll chuck. Cut a 15/8 in. tenon to fit the hole in the bottom of the mill body.The fit must be tight enough to hold the mill body for drilling and turning.
7Mount the mill body on the waste block tenon - a technique known as "jam chucking." Complete the drilling from the top of the mill body.
8Plug the hole in the mill body top with a turned wooden "cork'.' With the cork in place, the tailstock can be used to support the mill body while turning the exterior.
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