Side

1/4"

need to line up with the top edge of the appropriate rails (Figs. C and D). Note that the face frame for the base cabinet is taller than the cabinet sides, to allow room for a subtop (B7).

12) Sand the face frames and clean out the corners with a chisel. Install the face frames with glue, finish nails and clamps (Photo 6). Fill the holes with birch-tinted putty.

13) Reinforce each cabinet's joints with many small glue blocks (Fig. A). Use more blocks behind the face frames, where they join the cabinets.

14) On the base unit, install cleats (B8 and B9) to support the subtop. Cut the subtop to size but don't attach it yet It's a lot easier to install this cabinet without the subtop in place.

15) Make sycamore-edged shelves for all the cabinets. Trim the shelves 1/8-in. shorter than the distance between each cabinet's sides.

Make the Doors

16) Both the paneled and glass doors are constructed essentially the same way (Fig. B). Mill all the rails and stiles to size, then rout or dado a groove down the center of each part's inside edge.

17) Rout or dado tenons on the ends of each rail. Resaw bookmatched panels (T13, T16, and B17) from 3/4-in. thick boards and plane them to fit into the grooves. Apply finish to the panels before installing them.

18) Glue the doors together (Photo 7). Use Space Balls to prevent the panels from rattling in the winter when diey shrink in width (See Sources, page 68).

19) Rout a rabbet around the backside of the two glass doors using a bearing-guided rabbeting bit (Photo 8). Square the corners with a chisel. After applying a finish to the doors, install the glass. Use wooden retaining strips or a silicone bead to hold it in place.

Install the Cabinets

20) Sand all the components to 220 grit and apply a clear polyurethane finish.

21) Position the cabinets in your room. Determine the highest spot on your floor and place the cabinet that sits here first. Shim the remaining cabinets to align with this one. Attach the cabinets to the wall with screws driven through the backs and into your wall's smds.

22) Add pulls to the doors (see Sources). Install the doors with full overlay hinges (Photo 9).

23) Make the crown molding (see Custom-Made Crown Molding, page 69), then fit it to the cabinets. Finish the molding as loose pieces, then pin-nail it to the cabinets, butted to the ceiling.

24) Add the base molding.

Make the Countertop

25) Glue the countertop (C7) from boards that are 4-in. or so wide, alternating heart and bark sides, to ensure that the top stays flat.

7Build the door frames with extra-deep grooves so the solid-wood panels can expand in summer. Place soft-sponge Space Balls in the grooves to prevent the panels from rattling around in winter.

8Build the glass doors in the upper cabinet the same way as the paneled doors.To make the glass easy to install from the back, turn the grooves into rabbets with a router.

9Hang the doors after the cabinets are installed, to make sure they're perfectly level. Support the doors on a ledger strip to line them up.

26) Install the subtop in the base unit. Trim the top to the exact width of the base unit. Screw and glue the countertop to the cleats (B8, B9). Install the backsplash (C8) and side pieces (C9). These hold die top down and allow for the top to expand and contract. Add the front and return trim (CIO and Cll).

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