Cut #2: Rout the large opening in the top section. Chuck the '/2-in. straight bit in the router, position the narrow insert and the small angled insert in the base, and set maximum cutting depth to 7/8 in. Rout this 7/8-in.-deep opening using progressively deeper depth settings. (See center photo, below.)
Cut #3: Rout the small opening in the top section. Keep the narrow insert in place, remove the small angled insert and install the large angled one. Plunge rout the 7/8-in.-deep opening as in the previous step, running the router base against the insert and edge strips. (See right photo, below.) Now you can unclamp the top section blank and give any remaining top section blanks the same treatment.
Cut #4: Rout the bottom section. Start with a blank at least 10 in. long and use the same bit and depth setting as for cuts #2 and fr i. This time, only install the narrow insert. Clamp the bottom blank in the jig. and remove the waste as before.
Rout the dovetail slot for the lid.
Start and slop the router in the middle of this excavation. No inserts are used in the jig for this first cut.
Rout the large compartment. Use the narrow insert and the small angled insert to define the opening si/e. Plunge cut with a straight hit.
Rout the small compartment. Fit the narrow insert and the large angled insert inside the jig's borders to rout this small o/iening.
FIG. 2: BOX-ROUTING JIG
Locator strips and a pair of toggle clamps secure the workpiece beneath the base. Edging strips and three different inserts control router movement to make the different plunge cuts in the box parts. The size of your jig depends on the diameter of your router base. (See How to Make Your Jig, below.) Use hardboard for the jig's base, and 2x3 stock for braces and feet. You can make the inserts from hardwood, plywood or MDF.
Use Va-dia. dowels as locator pins to hold inserts in position on base..
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