The base of the wrner cupboard is built using a number cf pieces (Fig. 16). I started by screwing cleats (L) to the bottom of the cabinet to provide a mounting surface for the base.
CLXaT. Begin by cutting the cleats (L) to a width of IV2" and rough length. Then miter both ends cf the middle cleat at 22V2& so the ends align with the joints cf the stiles and sides (Fig. 17), and it sticks out l/j" from the front cf the cabinet (Fig. 16).
After the middle cleat is cut to length, miter the front end cf each side cleat and then cut the back end to length (at 90°).
base. After the cleats were screwed down, I added the base pieces (M) to the front. These three pieces have a rabbet cut on the top edge to fit around the cleats (Fig. 18). After cutting the rabbet, miter the pieces so the miters align with the miters on the cleats.
To join the base pieces, I used a spline joint like the sides and stiles (pig. 1 7a). Then I glu ed the base pieces to the cleats.
cove molding. The last step on the base is to add the cove molding (N). To make the molding, first rout V2" coves along both edges cf a 21/2l,-wide by 36"-long blank (Step 1 in Fig. 19).
Note! While you're set up, you ma9 want to rout enough molding (E) for the cabinettop as well.
Then round over the bottom edge of the bottom cove molding only (Step 2). Finally, trim the 3/4"-wide molding off both edges (StepS).
New miter the molding to fit around the cabinetand glue it in place on top cf the cleats (Fig. 16).
To add strength to the base cf the cab inet, I screwed triangular braces (0) behind the base pieces. Two cf the braces fit behind the front base piece and the other two support a rear sup port (Fig. 21).
THIANGUUWl RACES, Start by Cutting four braces 4W square. Then triri one comer eff each brace at 45" leaving 1" shoulders along two edges (Fig. 20).
To fit around the bottom cleats (L),
cut notches out cf the two front braces (Fig. 20). Then screw two of the braces to the back cf the base piece (M) and to the bottom cf the cabinet (A) .
rear support. The back cf the cabinet is held up with a rear support (F) (Fig. 21). Cut it to the same width as the braces (¿W) and to the same length as the back edge cf the cabinet bottom (23V4m in my case). Then screw the back braces onto the inside face cf the rear support Now screw this assembly to the bottom cf the cabinet
The top molding is made froma combination of pieces fastened together-
TOP Ci. EAT, Begin by making and screwing down three trp cleats (Q) just like the bottom cleats (FigM). The top cleats are a little different though. They're 2" wide and mounted so they stick out 1" in front cf the cabinet cove MCfUHNG, Next, cut the cove molding (R) you made eadia: and glue it underneath the cleats (Fig. 2b).
CROWN MOLDfHG To make the crown molding, I started by cutting two blanks 3W wide. Then cut one to a rough length cf 36" for the front an d one 24" for the two sides.
To cut the wide eove on the face of the molding, clamp a straightedge fence to the sw at a 30° angle to the blade (Fig. 22). Position the fence so the top of the blade is centered on the width cf the fctlak. Now cut the cove by making very light passes, increasing the blade height between passes until the wve is W deep.
Next, rip the blank so one edge is from the cove (Step 1 in Fig. 2$). Then make two cuts on this edge with the blade set at 30" (Steps 2 and 3).
Now lower the blade so it's only W high, and cut a slot on the back cf the molding fix a spline (Step 4,). Finally, .cut off the other edge at 30° (Step 5).
The last step is to cut a pocket for mounting screws. To make the pocket, cut an angled groove in the back cf the molding with a dado blade (Step 6),
Now the crown moldingean be cut to fit on top cf the cleat (see the Shop Tip box below).
To hold the joints together, I added splines shaped like elongated triangles into the slot in the molding (Fig. 25).
Was this article helpful?