Designed with frames andplywoodpanels and a variety ofdifferentjoinery techniquesthis project offers an interestingset ofchallenges to any home woodworker

lthough a bookcase doesn't have J» to be fancy to do its job, it ought to gel more respect than the old "boards and bricks" approach. This bookcase not only looks great, but it's strong as well.

One reason that it's so strong is that I built it ¡ram red ask. But there's another reason that you can't see right away—the joinery.

JOINERY. I used a variety of joints, each one deigned to add strength to a different part of the project.

First, the sides and back are frames and panels assembled with Stub tenons and grooves. Then the three frame units are joined together with rabbets and grooves.

Next, stopped sliding dovetail joints hdd the apron that spans between the sidefranies.

The top and bottom are made from %" oak plywood held within a mitered frame. And the bass pieces are con-

Finally, there's a bullnose edging strip added to the front of the W plywood shelf && a classic tongue arid groove joint.

shelf reinforcement. There's one other thing that I did to add strength to this bookcase.

Over time, shelves filled with books can start to droop. I don't think the shelf in this "bookcase ever will. That's because it's reinforced with oak strips that run under the length of the shelf. (For more on reinforcing shelves, see pages 62 and 63.)

FINISH. Once all of the joints were cut and the project was assembled, I finished it with a coat of light brown stain and then applied two coats of tung oil for protection.

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