After the frames and panels were complete, I started work on the front apron (refer to Fig. 18).
CUT TO SIZE. Begin by cutting the apron (I) 2" wide (Fig. ¿¡J. The length of the apron equals the shoulder-to-shoulder length cf the back frame (mth&ut the tongues),plus (for the two dovetail tongues).
ROUT DOVETAIL TENONS. To hold the apron securely virile forming tie dovetail tenons, I clamped it in a hand screw
clamp (Fig. 9). Then I adjusted the fence to take just a little cff each face to form the tenon. Now creep up on the finalthicknessby moving the fence Sad repeat the process until the tenons fit the dovetail grooves.
Next, trim about: Va" off the bottom cf each tenon so vtei it slides into the groove, the top cf the apron is flush with the tap of the frame (Fig. 10).
CUT PROFILE. Now the curved profile can be cut To do this, draw a 1 "-radius curve near each end (Fig. 8). Then cut out the shape, staying about'/«" outside the pencil line.
To finish up to the line, I used the router table with a long fence and a straight bit (Fig. 11). Make a series ai light passes until the edge is straight
and smooth, and lines up with the rounded comers.
cut grooves. Next it's time to plan ahead for fastening the top. I used stamped metal fasteners that fit into grooves. Cut the grooves along the inside edges cf the apron and top rail of the back frame (Fig,12).
SOFTEN EJXj£$ The last step before assembling the case is softening the edges with a bullnose profile (Detail in Fig. 13). Rout the front cf the side frames and the bottom cf the apron.
ajumbu TH€ USE. Finally, the case can be assembled (Fig. 13). Sst glue the side frames to the back frame. Then add the front apron.
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