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UPPER & LOWER CASE_

This bookcase is built in separate assemblies. Normally, I'd build them one at a time. But here, the upper and lower ¡ase assemblies are almost identical. (The upper case is 2H shorter.) Building them at the same time reduced the number of setups.

FRONT i SIDES. Both the upper and lower case assembliesstart with £ front and two side pieces. I began by cutting the lower case front (A) and sides (B) to finished size (Fig. 1). And then I repeated the same steps to make the upper case front (C) and sides (D).

Next, used a locking rabbet joint to hold the front and side pieces together (Fig, U), A tongue cut on the front pieces fits in W'-deep dado cut on the side pieces. The important thing here is to make the tongue fitsnugly in the dado.

After cutting the tongue, I rabbeted! the inside top edge of the lower case assembly and the inside bottom edge of the upper case assembly (Fig. $). These rabbets will hold a top and bottom panel which are made next top/bottom panels. To determine the length cf the top/bottom panels (E), dry assemble the fronts and sides and measure the distance between the rab bets 311 the sides (Fig. 4).

Then to determine the width, measure from the rabbet on both front pieces to the back edges cf the sides. But you need to leave room for the plywood back (added later). So the width cf each panel is cut so it's W short cf the back edge (Fig. 4a). In my case, the finished size cf both top/bottom panels (E) was ll3/i6"x397/8".

After the panels are cut to size, the next step is to rabbet three edges cf each panel (front and side edges) (Figs. 4 and 4a). This rabbet creates a "shelf for molding that's added later (refer to fty. 10 on page 68).

'Once both panels have been rabbeted, glue the upper/lower ase sides, fronts, and panels together. Clamp the pieces and check that everything remainssquare.

UVEUR BLOCKS Because the book-casestands 'o tall, levelers ire added to the lower cas< assembly to keep the back tight against the wall. To hold these levelers, I added blocks (L) at both front comers (Fig. 5), The leveler blocks also act glue blocks and help strengthen the corners

i/ER CASE SIDE

Each leveler block is glued up from two pieces cf W-thick stock. AT-nut is installed in the bottom end and the levelers screw drto the nut (Fig. 5a).

To install the blocks, position them tight against the underside cf the bottom panel (E). Then glue them in place.

case BLOCKS. The next step is to add lower case blocks (P) and upper case blocks (G). The blocks cover up the end grain on the side pieces and give the bookcasea distinctive look

Both sets cf blocks are cut to the same width (35/g"). But the height of each set is determined by the height cf the upper and lower assemblies (Fig. 6). {For tight-fitting case blocks I made relief cuts on the back faces; see the Shop Tip box below.)

You might he tempted to glue the blocks directly to the front pieces. But the wood grain on the blocks runs in a different direction than the front pieces. So there's a good chance the blocks would "pop off" if the wood moved from changes in humidity.

Instead, I drilled two shank h through the case fronts and screwed the blocks in place (Fig. 6a).

FILLER PIECES Next I added filler pieces. These act as backing for bead molding that will be glued to the top cf the case blocks later. I cut the hardwood filler pieces (H) 3/b" thick and glued them in place (Fig. 7).

CORNER BLOCKS. Then I turned the These triangular-shaped blocks add assemblies around so I could glue and supportto each assembly, screw on lower (I) and upper (J) corner N±e: The blocks are installed flush blocks at the back corners (Fig. 8). with the back edge cf the plywood.

Relief Cute For A Tight Fit

I he si.f cess of a project on the fit cf the parts. This is especially true for a piece of trim that's applied to the face of a project such as the case blocks on this bookcase.

cupped piece of mo jung causes gap at joint line parts. This is especially true for a piece of trim that's applied to the face of a project such as the case blocks on this bookcase.

cupped piece of mo jung causes gap at joint line

The blocks should fit tight to the case along their edges. But if the blocks are cupped even slightly the edges won 't fit tight (fig. 1) Tnis s the same problem reljef on back of moloinci permits tight fit faced by taiiprttfflS who install trim molding in houses. Their solution is to use molding that's milled with a shallow " relief on the back ride to fit up tight against a wall.

So I cut a shallow channeliicross the back side to create relief behind order to avoid weakening the block, only cut the channel " deep reljef on back of moloinci permits tight fit

CHAMFERS. After installing the corner blocks, I turned the upper and lower assemblies over and routed a chamfer around three edges (Figs. 9 and 9a). One problem here is that the chamfer bit won't cut a square inside corner. So to clean up the inside corners right up next to the case blocks, I used a sharp chisel and followed the profile cf the bevel (Fig. 9b).

bead mousing. The next step is to make the bead molding (K). The molding fits on the rabbeted edge of both the upper and lower cases and wraps around the filler piece (Fig. 10).

First, I cut molding blanks to width and thickness (Fig. 10a). Then I used a 3/i6r' roundover bit in the router table to rout a bullnose profile on the front edge.

Note: I made extra molding in case I cut a piece or two that didn't quite fit.

When installingthe molding, cut the long pieces first (the ones that cover the lower and upper case fronts). That way if you cut one a little short, it still can be used for the side pieces. Then work your way around to the sides, cutting and fitting the piecesas you go. Finally, glue all the pieces in place.

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