Molding

With the case complete the next step is to add the decorativemolding at the top and bottom.

BASE MOWING. The easiest way to make the base molding (G) is to start with one long board and rip it to finished width (Fig. 6). Next, rip or rout a 45" chamfer along one edge (Fig. 6a). Now this blank can be mitered into thrB8 pieces to fit around the base.

Before attaching the base molding to the case, a half ellipse is cut in the front piece to add a decorative detail.

To create this shape,first enlargethe half pattern in Fig. 7. It isn't critical that you match the pattern exactly. But what you want to end up with is a design that looks balanced on the front piece.

The way I went about doing that is to first find the centerline cf the front piece. Then position the half pattern on one side of this line and trace around it to draw one half of the partial ellipse (Fig. 8). Now by flipping the pattern over, the other half of the ellipse can be drawn next. When you're finished, the ellipse will be automatically centered.

Now cut out the shape and use a drum sander to sand the ellipse smooth, Finally, all three pieces can be glued and clamped to the case, top molding. To complete the molding for the case, top molding (H) is added next (Fig. 9). This is made in much the same way as the base molding. First, a blank for all three pieces is ripped to finished width. Next, a 12° bevel can be ripped on one face (Fig. 9a).

Now miter the ends of the pieces to fit around the top with a 2" overhang. Each piece can be glued and screwed in place to form a U-shaped frame to sit on top cf the case. Finally, plug the screw holes to fill in the openings.

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