Lanterns

boler block

rear-axle block

LOCOMOTIVE BOOY (SIDES REMOVED)

cowcatocr block

bxer support block

SIDES (MAKE TWO)

glue joints with 1-in. finish nails.

STEP 3: Cut out and construct the cowcatcher assembly .The boiler support block and cowcatcher form the cowcatcher assembly. (Sec Fig. I.) I used a tablesaw to bevel the front end of the cowcatcher block, setting the miter gauge at 60° and the blade at 15°. After mitering the cowcatcher front, 1 glued the boiler support block to the back of it. using finish nails to reinforce the glue joint.

STEP 4: Attach the cab and cowcatcher assemblies to the locomotive sides. Refer to Fig. 1 for the exact location of assemblies, and glue the whole lot together. Use 1-in. finish nails to reinforce the glue joint. This forms the body of the locomotive. (See photo below.)

STEP 5: Construct the boiler block. The boiler block is a semi-cylindrical part with a lip on the bottom edge. (See Fig. 1.) You could turn the cylindrical shape in the boiler block, then slice it below center and add the lower lip. I chose a different method. I made the boiler block out of two pieces of I Vi-in. thick clear fir both a foot long; one was 6 in. wide and the other 5 in. wide. I placed these two pieces together with the smaller one on top, and drew a partial circle on each end of these stacked pieces. (See Fig. 1) I used a 5-in. dia. cardboard circle as my template to mark the 2'A-in. radius with a central point xh in. up from the bottom edge of the lower piece. You could just as well use a compass.

To produce the cylindrical shape, I first sawed away much of the waste on each piece on the tablesaw. 1 then shaved off the rest with a hand plane. (See photo below.) Be sure to leave the Vi-in. lip along the bottom sides of the cylinder. Finally, I glued the two pieces together to form the boiler block.

Glue and naJI the cab and

assembly between the sides of the

To shape the cylindrical bofler block, first cot off excess waste on the tablesaw, then hand plane it down to Its cylindrical shape (right).

STEP 6: Drill holes in the boiler block for the smokestack, the sand dome and the steering column.

I used a brace and an adjustable expansion auger bit to drill lV4-in. dia. x V* -in. deep holes in the top of the boiler block. (See Fig. I.) Youll attach the smokestack and sand dome after the train is painted. Next, on a drill press with the boiler block right-side up, drill the V4-in. dia. hole for the steering column. Unlike the smokestack holes, you'll need to drill the steering-column hole all the way through the boiler block. It's important to drill this hole perpendicular to the bottom surface of the boiler block to allow the steering mechanism to work properly.

STEP 7: Construct the steering-column assembly. The steering-column assembly consists of a %-in. dia. dowel steering column, a 1 Vi-in. dia. dowel steering grip, a %-in. dia. dowel retaining pin and a pin-retainer block. (See Fig. 2.) After you cut these parts to size and drill the indicated holes, glue the steering grip to the steering column and insert the steering column through the boiler block. Turn the boiler block upside down and insert the

FIG. 2: STEERING ASSEMBLY

stemnggrjp llYHlMA X6H)

RttAMNGPft

Was this article helpful?

0 0
Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

THIS book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company. Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this series, it is written so you can understand it. The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects. The textand illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

Get My Free Ebook


Post a comment