Clamping

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I've always had a difficult time trying to use ordinary bar or pipe clamps to glue up small panels or frames. The size and weight of the clamps makes them unwieldy. So instead, I came up with a gluing and clamping jig that can be used for small projects.

My jig uses a couple of pivoting arms to trap the workpieces. The arms equalize the pressure along the length of the edges being clamped. Clamping pressure is applied by using

NOTE:

Drill counterbores on bottom of base for carriage bolt heads wedges and moveable dowel pins, see photo.

The base of the jig is just a piece of^"-thick plywood with some holes drilled in it. (I made my base 15" square). First, holes are drilled in two opposite corners for the hardware that is used to attach the arms. Then, a series of holes is drilled in an arc around each pivot hole. These are for the removable dowel pins that are added later.

Next, the two pivoting arms can be added to the

base. The arms are nothing more than a couple pieces of 3/4M-thick hardwood. They're attached to the base of the jig with carriage bolts, washers, and lock nuts, see drawing below. The lock nuts are not tightened down all the way in order to allow the arms to pivot freely.

A coupje V^'-dia. hardwood dowels and wedges complete the clamping jig. By moving the dowels to a different set of holes, you can clamp up workpieces of various sizes.

Paul Murphy Sydney, Nova Scotia

NOTE:

Drill counterbores on bottom of base for carriage bolt heads

PVC Clamp Rack

QUICK TIP

Instead of placing wax paper down on my bench when gluing up small pieces, I use a nonstick cookie sheet.

The cookie sheet doesn't slide around like the wax paper. And the lip around the cookie sheet keeps small pieces from rolling or "wandering off."

R.B. Himes Vienna, Ohio

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Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

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