Tedswoodworking Plans

16.000 Woodworking Plans by Ted McGrath

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4x4 Push Block

I use this 12-inMong ix i as a push block when jointing small pieces. This not only gives me better control, but the weight helps prevent kickback. Also, the push block has a sacrificial wood catch on the end (sec drawing) which is easy to replace should it get cut by the jointer knives.

A stud and wing nut hold this sacrificial catch to the end of the 4x4. And I cut the hole in the catch off center so that the catch has two positions—one for pushing thick stock, the other for thin stock.

Reverse Clamping

If you have difficulty taking a joint apart after a trial fit, don't beat it with a hammer or mallet. Coax it apart by-inserting a wooden handscrew between the parts and turning the screws in reverse. The Quakers have a name for this technique: "Friendly persuasion."

Deanna Driscoll San Francisco, CA

Deluxe Clamp Pads

When clamping up finished surfaces with iron clamps, you need wood pads—fast. My pads stay put in any position yet are easily removed by pulling out the wood pin. The bearing surfaces are larger than those on the

Cut slot to fit bar

metal pads, so they're less likely to dent the wood. Plywood faced with a soft wood such as poplar or pine works best, but fir would do.

I made several sets of pads, both for my regular bar clamps and for my miniature clamps. I used wood axle pegs for the pins, but '/^-in. cotter pins would work equally well.

Ralph Sanders Shorcham, NY

Lay the comer of the square on an anvil and tap the face with a ball-peen hammer. Hitting it close to the outside corner reduces the angle; tapping near the inside corner increases it.

Hugh Lineback Siloam Springs, AR

Ripping Stock for Glue-Up

When ripping stock for edge gluing, try alternating the boards face side up it

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