To mark the position of the pins, I clamp the board in a vice with the "OUT" side of the board facing me. Since I've already worked out the size and position of the pins on paper, it's now just a matter of transfer-ing the marks with the aid of a 12" steel ruler, Fig. 2. (This is where it's helpful to use a chisel to gauge the width of the pins.)
marking the angle. Next the sliding bevel is set to the proper angle (I use 1:5). Place the point of a very sharp pencil (or scribe) on the mark at the very edge of the board. Then move the sliding bevel up to the point of the pencil, and mark the angle. The result should be a bunch of triangles, all pointing toward you (the "OUT' face of the board), Fig. 3.
mark vertical lines. Now use a try square to mark vertical lines on the "OUT" face of the board. These lines are used as guides for cutting and should stop right at the base line, Fig. 4.
Finally, just to keep things from getting confused (which often happens) I mark an "X" on the waste sections between the pins.
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