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Flattening Blades

I've found it's best to flatten the back of a plane blade with cloth-backed emery paper. I bought l-ft.-square marble tiles (available from flooring companies) and used spray adhesive to attach a full sheet of abrasive to each one, in grits ranging from 60 to 220. I use no lubricant, but vacuum the loose particles of metal and grit frequently. Unlike glass, marble doesn't shatter or distort under pressure.

Steven Zawalick San Luis Obispo, CA

Resawing Logs

Bandsawing a small log freehand is risky, and snapping a chalk line on the rough bark is impractical. We set the log on a 2x10 and make two cradles so it can't rock. We secure the cradles with long drywall screws driven up through the plank and into the log, making sure they're clear of the cutline.

Set the bandsaw fence so the edge of the plank bears against it, and saw right

through the middle of both log and plank. If we need to quarter the log, we repeat the process.

Simon Watts The Arques School Sausalito, CA

Center-Finding Jig

Here's a quick and foolproof way to locate the center of square or round stock. First, make an L-shapcd jig out of scrap, then tack a thin piece of plywood to one end as shown. Make sure that the cut is exactly 45°. Place the stock in the jig, draw a line, then rotate

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Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

THIS book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company. Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this series, it is written so you can understand it. The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects. The textand illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

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