several pieces. Mark a centerline down the middle drawer block, then gang all chc pieces together as they will appear in the finished ark. Line up the ccntcrlincs on the light layer and the middle drawer block to ensure that the drawers arc centered. Now trace the larger face of the light layer onto the ganged dark pieces, and handsaw them to shape, once again without the notches.
Notching for the figurehead—When you've cut all your layers, cut the figurehead notches in the light layers and the dark end pieces. 1 do this on the band-saw, with the table square to the blade. Each notch should be as wide as the figurehead is thick, and in. deep when measured off the smallest face of the layer. (See Figs. 2 and 3.) Since the figurehead is angled, it will contact the back of each notch at only one point. The sides of the notches provide enough gluing surface.
Before you cut out the animal shapes in the drawer blocks, resaw the bottom V\cy in. off each block. You'll glue this back onto the block later, to keep the animal shapes from falling out the bottom. Mark one end of each drawer before resawing so you can glue the resawn pieces back together in the right orientation.
Now draw the animal shapes on the thick pieces. You can enlarge the photos at left and use them as patterns; but it's just as easy—and more fun—to create your own collection of ark inhabitants. For speed reasons, I cut out the patterns with the bandsaw, using a Vg-in. blade
Wooden figures fit inside sliding drawers in the hull of the ark. You can enlarge the shapes shown here, or draw your own.
piece drawer block
I use soft maple for the four light layers, but any light-colorcd hardwood will work. Glue up your stock for the light laminates to 11 in. wide, and plane each of them until they're flat and a uniform thickness—around in. Cut the laminates to about 20 in. long.
I use walnut for the dark layers, which consist of end pieces, divider strips and drawer blocks. All these pieces should be about 1 in. thick. I make the figurehead pieces from walnut of the same thickness. Rip all the walnut parts to the widths shown in Fig. 2, and cut them 11 in. long.
Rip an extra set of spacer blocks from V^-in. scrap. You'll use these to locate the layers and divider strips for glue-up. These blocks are only half the thickness of the real drawer blocks, and you remove them before the glue sets, so they won't accidentally get glued into place. (See bottom left photo, page 77.)
Angled bandsawing—It's easy to cut out the hull parts if you follow this method. When you set your bandsaw table at 12' to the blade, each layer you cut will already be tapered to the desired angle, forming a gently sloping hull. You bandsaw the bottom layer first, then use it to lay out the next layer, working your way up the hull.
Use the footprint in Fig. 2 to lay out the very bottom layer, but don't cut the notch yet—just bandsaw to the curvcd line. Make sure to mark the centerline from side to side.
Now, use the larger face of the bottom layer to lay out the layer just above it. This is a dark layer, which consists of
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There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.