Tongue in rear ear meets end of groove-in guide rail.
FIG. 1: HARDWOOD EXTENSION SLIDE SYSTEM
You can adapt this slide mechanism to work with drawers of all sizes, including inset and overlay drawers. The extension slide (including the ears) is V2 in. shorter in overall height than the drawer side. The slide is as long as the drawer side; the guide rail is V^ in. shorter in length than the slide. Cleat and ear dimensions don't vary. guide rail stopped groove - x
Glue and screw guide —^ rail to top corner of drawer housing.
Cut stopped Vi-in. x 1/4-in. rabbet between ear pieces.
front ear 1/2 x 19/16 x tv2
extension slide inches high. For heavy-duty applications such as file cabinets, or for small picccs such as jewelry boxes, you'll have to beef the parts up or scale them down as necessary.
This slide system is simple to build. There are just a couple of requirements regarding the dimensions of the carcase and drawer. First, the drawer must be between ll/16 in. and 1'/8 in. narrower lhan the drawer housing or face-frame opening in the carcase. Second, the back end of the drawer must be Vl6 in. lower than the height of the drawer housing or face-frame opening.
The slide system consists of three pairs of components: support cleats, extension slides and guide rails. (See Fig. 1). I suggest making these parts out of the same wood as the drawer sides, or any sturdy hardwood.
Each extension slide is made from three pieces of '/2-in.-thick stock: a wide lower section and two small ears attached to the top edge of the front and back. Note that the dimensions of the ears are fixed, but the length and width of the lower slide section will vary according to the overall height and length of the drawer.
Before attaching the ears, cut a stopped rabbet in the top edge of each lower slide section. It's easiest to cut this with a straight bit or rabbeting bit chucked in the router table. Note that each drawer has one right-handed and one left-handed extension slide—mirror images of each other—so cut the rabbets and perform all subsequent steps accordingly. After routing, square up both ends of each rabbet with a chisel.
Glue the ears atop the ends of the lower section, their long grain running parallel to the length of the lower section. I suggest reinforcing the joints with dowels, splines or small plate-joinery biscuits.
Next, cut a by -Vl6-in. slot in the top edge of each rear ear and glue a l/8 by 3/8 by lV8 -in. tongue into it. Cut the tongues from pieces of hard maple. For ; strength, the grain of these small tongues should run perpendicular to the ears.
? Each cleat has a by ^j^-in. rabbet on its lower edge. Two countersunk flathead screws mount the clears to the drawer sides. Drill the pilot holes for the screws—in both the cleats and the drawer sides—but leave the cleats ofT until final assembly. Regardless of the drawer size, the cleats mount l/2 in. from the top edge of the drawer sides. (See Fig. 2.)
The guide rails control the travel of the extension slides. I cut mine from strips of l/2 by l/2 -in. rock maple, but any similarly strong, durable wood will work. For overlay drawer fronts, make the strips about Vl6 in. shorter than the full depth of the drawer opening. For flush-fitting drawer fronts, make the strips the depth of the drawer opening minus the thickness of the drawer front, minus in.
The centered, stopped groove on the underside of each rail is easiest to cut on the router table. Square up the stopped end of the groove with a small chisel.
The way that the guide rails are mounted in the carcase depends on the
FIG. 2: GUIDE-RAIL AND CLEAT LOCATION
Mount the guide rail Vlf> in. behind the drawer front when the drawer is closed. To determine where to stop the guide rail's groove, use one of the formulas shown below. Locate the cleat one-third of the way back from the back of the drawer front for overlay drawers, or from the face of the drawer front for flush drawers.
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