Sticking

(See Fig. 1.) I use a hard (No. 4). sharp pencil for this layout work. On one of the stiles, I lay out the finished height of the door, allowing lor about an inch of waste at each stile end. Then I mark the overall width (including the sticking) of each rail where it will join the stile. I also mark the width of the rail sticking itself.

As shown in Fig. 1, the mortises in | each stile will fall between the sticking

* miter cut and the finished end of the

* stile. The sticking width lines arc used 't to align the miter cuts. After doublc-2 checking the layout, I transfer my lines | to the remaining stile.

Rails need to be cut to their finished 1 length at this stage. The formula for calculating this length is simple. Start with the finished width of the door. Subtract the width of both stiles, then add back the width of the sticking on each stile. Finally, add the length of both tenons.

At this point, I cut the stile mortises using the hollow-chisci mortising attachment on my drill press. 1 cur the tenons on the rails using my tablesaw and a dado cutter.

Now, mill the sticking profile along each frame member. (Sec photo, right.) I do this on the shaper, but with the proper bit, you could just as easily do this work with a router and edging bit. It's even possible to create your sticking profile by hand, if you want to plane a chamfer or scrape using a scratch stock. Important: Remember to profile a sam-

FIG. 2: COMMON STICKING PROFILES

QUIRK & BEAD

QUIRK & BEAD

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