How To Make Fishing Lures Ebooks
The secret to a smooth-running table saw that produces great cuts is proper alignment. The article on page 14 highlights three great jigs that will help keep your saw cutting straight and true. The A-Line-lt jig is manufactured by In-Line Industries, while the SuperBar and MasterPlate are made by MasterGage. These jigs were purchased from Rockier, and are also available from the Woodsmith Store.
The least expensive to buy and the easiest to set up are the many half-blind dovetail jigs. No matter how wide or thick the wood is, you clamp it into the jig, run the router through both pieces at once, and get equal-width pins and tails that are rounded to fit into each other at the back. This is the very institutional-looking joint that is often used to assemble drawers for kitchen or other production cabinets. The trickiest part of this one is to get the two parts offset just half a pin in the jig so they come out flush when you assemble them. All of these jigs consist of a metal base with a clamping system to hold the mating workpieces and a comblike template to guide the router in cutting both pieces at once. The biggest difference from one brand to another, from one mode) to another, is the quality of the materials and hardware and the precision with which it's made and assembled. The cheapest ones have stamped parts that tend to flex and buckle, threads that strip quite...
I use a pattern-cutting bit and a couple of template-routing jigs to cut identical curves on the stretchers quickly and accurately. One jig cuts the bottom curve and the other jig cuts the end curves. (See photos, above.) Each jig has a base, backstop and cndstop made of V*2-in. MDF. The jig for the bottom curve is 5 by 16 in. overall, and the jig for the end curve is SV* by 10. Both jigs employ quick-action toggle clamps, scrcwed to the backstop, to hold down the workpieces during the cut. When drawing the curves onto the bases of the jigs, extend the line a little beyond the actual cut, so that the router bit's bearing registers on the template's edge before entering the cut and after exiting the cut. One important note
His how-to story has a picture-perfect ending. In fact, you might want to round up some spectators for applause in the final steps. Richard Tendick has developed a safe, simple technique to help you make narrow, complex picture-frame stock using nothing more than a tablesaw. That's right, there are no routers or specialized jigs and sleds to make, either. With Richard's system, you actually glue the frame before the final cut. The fun comes when the frame is cut loose from the square stock. Jigsaw 3. Cut out the opening for the goals using a jigsaw or scrollsaw (Photo 2). Saw goal openings with a jigsaw. Here's your chance to cut lots of corners and still get great-looking results. These sturdy trays are easy to build, thanks to their simple box joints and template-routed curves. You don't need a super-equipped shop, just a tablesaw with a dado set, a router table and a drill press. You've probably saved enough scrap pieces from other projects to build the trays and the jigs, but even...
F yon only use your router to rout I decorative edges, you're missing -JL. the boat. Your router can be the most versatile tool in your shop. The secret to unlocking your router's potential is to use it with specialized jigs. A dovetail jig is a perfect example Fortunately, you can make many useful router jigs in your shop without spending an ami and a leg. I'll show you three simple jigs that will expand your woodworking capabilities by leaps and bounds one for dadoing, one for mortising and one for making shelf pin holes. Although these jigs have been around since the dawn of routers, they're indispensable additions to any woodworking shop.
Screws are a simple and effective way to join wood, particularly good for face frames, cabinet boxes or situation where you need a fast, strong joint and appearance isn't a big deal. The catch To drill them accurately you need a good jig. Unfortunately, there is a bewildering variety of pocket-hole jigs available at prices from 50 to more than 500. This review will help you get the one that's right for you. H LE JIGS
The five jigs you'll need are so simple you can make them all in a single morning, and cut all the mortises that afternoon. They're designed to work with a plunge router fitted with a 3 4-in. guide bushing and a 1 2-in.-diameter straight bit. An up-cut spiral design works best for mortising (see Sources, page 69).
I started work on the hall tree by building the three bending jigs. (Note laying out these jigs may be the most difficult part of this whole project. Although we're showing drawings for these jigs on this page, you may want to order the full-size patterns and detailed instructions from Woodsmith Project Supplies, see page 31.)
Commercially made tenoning jigs offer speed, precision, and versatility without breaking the bank. CONSTRUCTION. There are at least half a dozen tenoning jigs on the market, but almost all of them use the same basic design. The jig is The backstop on most jigs is adjustable, so you can use the jig to cut slots in the ends of mitered workpieces for splines (see main photo). When you're done, a stop allows you to automatically return the backstop to its 90 position (inset photo). ADVANTAGES. You can build a tenoning jig for next to nothing with just a few scraps of plywood. But commercially made tenoning jigs have some real advantages over shop-built versions. They're made out of cast iron, so they'll last a lifetime without warping or going out of square. They can be adjusted quickly and easily. And the weight and mass of these jigs makes them very stable, resulting in more accurate cuts. FEATURES. If you take a look at the photos on the bottom of the opposite page, you can see a...
Half-Blind Dovetail Jigs Easy to set up, simple to use half-blind jigs are workhorses in many shops. They're most commonly used for making drawers, but you can build many kinds of boxes and even do some casework with them (see I Shaker Sewing Cabinet, page 82). With a router adjusted and ready to go, it takes only a few minutes to cut all the dovetails for a drawer. All the half-blind jigs are based on the same idea. One bit cuts both pins and tails on two boards in a single operation (Photo 1). Fold the two boards together and you've got an extremely strong joint with plenty of surface area for glue (Photo 2). With this kind of jig, the pins and tails are exactly the same size. You can't vary their spacing. Accessories for most jigs include templates for smaller dovetails and templates for box joints. All the half-blind jigs have a 12-in.-wide maximum capacity. The jigs' basic features are quite similar. Flush, overlay and lipped drawers are fairly easy to turn out no matter which...
All jigs have optional templates for cutting different-sized dovetails or box joints, but two jigs are equipped with double-sided templates with two rows of fingers (Photo 8). With the Craftsman you can make standard 1 2-in. and 1 4-in. dovetails (although you'll need another bit and template guide for the smaller ones). With the Woodhaven you can make 1 2-in. dovetails and wider 3 4-in. dovetails using the same bit. Once we got the hang of using it, every jig we tested turned out fairly good joints, so you really cant go wrong with any of these jigs. However, jigs with the best features listed above generally produce more consistent results and make life in the shop more pleasant. ROUTER-TABLE BASED JIGS. Vou can make a bazillion dovetail variations with the Incra Jig Ultra (972-418-4811 or www.incra.com 16-in., 200 24-in. 240 or the Jointech (800-619-1288, www.join-tech.com 12-in. 320 18-in. 350). These jigs are sophisticated fences for your router table. Versatility comes at the...
Assisted by a few simple jigs, your tablesaw can produce excellent frame-and-panel assemblies for doors and cabinet parts. One jig raises the panel another makes the open mortise-and-tenon joint that holds the frame together. Though there are plenty of other ways to do these jobs the tablesaw advantages arc accuracy and convenience. You can walk up to a single machine with a pile of boards and walk away with first-class paneled doors. (See photo, left.) What a tablesaw does best is rip, and the saw's rip fence is the best way to guide jigs. If you can set the fence parallel to the blade, you can saw a straight and parallel edge on almost any wood that's damped to a jig. For safety and precision, you've got to clamp the work, not hand-hold it.
From a simple rustic rectangle to a classic Victorian oval, How to Make Picture Frames provides complete step-by step instructions that will allow you to add a personal touch to family photos and other treasured mementos. In each story, you'll discover jigs, fixtures and techniques the pros use for top-quality results. You'll learn how to cut perfect miters, create intricate molded designs, cut mats, and mount artwork. Many of these mini-master-pieces can be completed in a weekend, using scrap materials. Whether you plan to make one frame or a dozen, this book shows how to do it right.
In recent years, many new drilling jigs have appeared on the market that allow small-shop operators to drill accurately spaced holes with just a drill press or a portable drill. When you choose frameless cabinets over face-frame cabinets, you gain a surprising amount of space. The 3 4-in. thickness given over to the face frame becomes shelf space and there are no frame members to block access to the interior. With the proper drilling jigs, hinges and drawer slides are easy to install and adjust. You can bore pilot holes for this hardware in the carcase sides at the same time you're boring shelf-support holes or, if you're drilling shelf holes with a 32mm jig, you can simply install the hinge plates to these holes. P.L
Pocket-screw joinery was around long before commercial pocket-hole jigs were available. Tabletops were routinely attached this way, and it's the method I used to fasten the upper case to my tool till. An oversized screw hole allows for considerable cross-grain wood movement. All it takes to make the joint is a drill and an in-cannel gouge (available from Garrett Wade, 800-221 -2942), which produces a clean wall in the pocket.
Clamping jigs take the panic out of the gluing and assembly process. Clamping Jigs Make Glue-Up a Cinch Assembling the box begins by making a set of clamping jigs. They are simply made from scraps of 1 4-in. plywood that have 45-degree beveled blocks glued to them (Photo 4). Make them 3 4-in. shorter than the outer dimensions of the box so they don't interfere with assembly. The advantage of these clamping jigs over other clamping methods is that you can deal with each joint independently, avoiding the frantic rush of trying to align, clamp and square all the corners at once. Do a full dry assembly to make sure the jigs and box parts come together correctly. Then disassemble the box and sand the bottom and the inner surfaces of the ends and sides. Add the jigs, glue and spring clamps to the miters 4 Attach clamping jigs to the ends and sides of the box. The jigs are a bit shorter than the parts so they don't interfere with the joint during assembly.
A, page 59). Dry assemble the entire case, one piece at a time, and drill pilot holes into the sides for the pocket screws. Use the jigs to hold the pieces together. 2. Glue and screw the lower web frame to one side using two squaring jigs (Photo 5). Then glue and screw the bottom in place with two more jigs. 5. Remove the squaring jigs and stand the cabinet upright. Glue and screw the drawer dividers to the lower web frame, then glue and screw the upper web frame (Photo 7). 4. Rip the backsplash pieces and trim to length. Cut the curves with a jigsaw or band-saw (Fig. K, page 65) and fair them with a half-round file. 6. Set up the backsplash pieces with the squaring jigs and glue and screw them together. Glue and even up the plugs.
What you do is make the template large enough to clamp to a workbench, with the mortising slot and the cleat cantilevered off the bench. Then you merely have to push the work against the cleat and the bottom of the template and then clamp it to the cleat. To rout a second or third mortise in the same piece, you simply have to move the work, not the work and the template. As I said before, this is the sort of router-mortising work that can be done efficiently using one of the other mortising jigs.
In the Rodale shop, Fred and Phil Gehret often start dovetails with the router, then finish them by hand. Most of the projects they do are one-of, special, even oddball ones that don't lend themselves well to mass-production-type jigs. They'll start by cutting either the pins or the The basic dovetail bit, the one that's in the sets of basic bits, the one that's used with the basic dovetail jigs, is the 14-degree, ' 2-inch-diameter, ' i-inch-cutting-length variety. Dovetail Splice on page 328 for jigs for cutting dovetail and box joints on the router table. As it works out, you can buy bits with 7-degrec tapers, as well as with TV*, 8-, and 9-degrec tapers. The reason these arc available, it seems, is because of the Leigh and Incra jigs. To give their dovetails more of a hand-cut look, the jigs' designers had bits custom-made in the 7- to 9-degree tapers they wanted. An increasing number of bit manufacturers now include 7- to 9-degrcc dovetail bits in their catalogs.
When I first started to build this dovetail jig, I thought the advantage was going to be the low cost. Dovetail jigs are priced from 50 up, but you can make the one shown here for about 30. All you need is some standard off-the-shelf hardware, five board feet of hardwood, and a piece of Vi Masonite to make your own comb template. (A kit is also available that includes a pre-cut plastic template, see Sources, page 24).
For these drawers, I used a procedure that was a little unusual, but it allowed me to build the drawers without any special jigs or materials. The secret is to start off by building an ordinary -thick drawer with machine-cut dovetails. But before gluing these drawer pieces together, I glued a thick block to the front piece and cut out the curves. For a closer look at this process, there's a step-by-step article that starts on page 16.
Box joints are strong and attractive And they dont require any special tools just a table saw a miter gauge and a
Here are a lot of reasons for using JL box joints. They're strong. They don't require any special tools or expensive jigs. And they look good. They can be used to dress up a project, like the stacking boxes or the planter. And for other projects, like the magazine boxes, they can give a stately, old-fashioned feel.
Makita has a new line of tools with built-in lights. The lights appear on everything from routers to drills, but seem most useful on Makita's sliding-compound miter saw, jigsaw and circular saw. The jigsaw is available in a barrel-grip (model 4341FCT) or a top-handle-grip (model 4340FCT) for 170 each. Along with the light, the saws have bases that tilt left and right, four-position orbital action for fast or fine cutting, a dust blower, variable speed, and a detachable no-mar base plate. The direct-read fence has a micro-adjust mechanism built in. Once you get the fence close to the setting you want, the roller makes it easy to dial in the final position. The fence also has built-in T-slots so you can mount jigs directly to the fence instead of clamping them on.
With its new tilting table, CFW is continuing a tradition of developing innovative products for woodworkers. The table lets you tilt a router and bit (like a tilting-arbor shaper), so you can rout profiles and make cuts that you otherwise couldn't do without special jigs.
Get a perfect fit with two easy-to-make jigs tedious setup work, I use a pair of jigs that, once tuned, will produce perfectly fitting sliding dovetail joints time after time. I made the two jigs shown here specifically for routing the sliding dovetails in my waterstone pond. (See article, page 44.) These jigs will handle stock -V4 in. thick by about 3 in. wide. You can size the jigs to handle thinner, thicker or wider stock, but the design isn't suitable for routing workpicccs over 10 in. wide. Both jigs arc sized to fit my laminate trimmer because I like the way these small, lightweight routers handle. But you can easily adapt the design to suit your own favorite router. The drawings show how the jigs work. On the socket jig, a U-shaped cutout in the jig's base guides the base of the router. (See Fig. 1.) On the tail jig, the router base is guided by a pair of fences. (See Fig 2.) The guiding edges of both jigs taper to produce corresponding tapers in the socket and tail pieces.
The manufacturer claims the computer will help you calculate fine adjustments to improve the fit of dovetails, dadoes and other joints that wouldn't be possible with the fixed templates the other jigs employ. Once you enter the right information on the keypad, the jig is supposed to set the required fence positions automatically at the push of a button. Price 499 Heartwood Technology, Box 50324, Colorado Springs, CO 80929, (719) 599-9321
DOWELLING JIGS It's worth acquiring a dowelling jig for a project that requires a number of identical dowel joints. The jig not only guides the bit to bore perfectly vertical holes, it also dispenses with the need to mark out each and every joint separately With one of the better jigs, you can mark out wide boards for cabinet work as well as rails and stiles. The type of jig shown here has a fixed head or fence from which measurements are taken, and a sliding fence that clamps the jig to the work-piece. Adjustable drill-bit guides and side fences position the dowel holes.
Jig, so for most cuts, you don't have to hand-hold the material or router as you would on a router table or with other router-based jigs. I really love the power-feed capability you get by turning the crank to feed the material past the bit. This allows stich operations as climb-cutting shoulders on tenons. Climb-cutting greatly reduces splintering when you rout end grain. The WoodRat isn't the most intuitive machine to operate. Even if you've used other router-based jigs, such as dovetail jigs, plan to spend plenty of shop time learning to use it. When you understand how the WoodRat works, cutting dadoes, mortises and tenons becomes easy. But some operations dovetails, for example are fussy to set up and tricky to execute. I found I had to work completely through the dovetailing process start to finish to get the big picture and then tweak my skills on another practice joint before moving to the real thing. The WoodRat can't be compared dollar-fordollar to dovetail jigs, because it's...
1 Online Extras - Plans, Patterns, & More 1 Over 100 Woodworking Tips Online 1 Visit Our Readers' Project Photo Gallery 1 Project Plans You Can Download Catalog of Project Kits, Tools, Jigs, & Plans Forums for Woodworking, Tools, & Classifieds Links to Other Woodworking Sites Order Woodsmith & ShopNotes Back Issues 1 Online Extras - Plans, Patterns, & More 1 Over 100 Woodworking Tips Online 1 Visit Our Readers' Project Photo Gallery 1 Project Plans You Can Download Catalog of Project Kits, Tools, Jigs, & Plans Forums for Woodworking, Tools, & Classifieds Links to Other Woodworking Sites Order Woodsmith & ShopNotes Back Issues
ROCKLER Rocker is the 1 resource for hinges, slides and other hard-to-find hardware. We feature an exclusive line of jigs, shop tables for band saws, drill presses, routers as well as exotic and domestic hardwoods. For more information, call 800-403-9736 or visit www.rockler.com. Circle 151.
LEIGH INDUSTRIES Leigh offers router joinery jigs, including the D4 Dovetail Jig, which cuts Through, Half-blind and Sliding dovetails up to 1 thick. They also make jigs for mortise & tenons, finger joints and Isoloc joints. For more information, call 800-663-8932 or visit www.lelghjigs.com ROCKLER Rocker is the 1 resource for hinges, slides and other hard-to-flnd hardware. We feature an exclusive line of jigs, shop tables for band saws, drill presses, routers as well as exotic and domestic hardwoods. For more information, call 800-403-9736 or visit www.rockler.com. Circle 151.
With this technique I can set the bit, position the fence, then forget about them. Each corner joint is cut in four passes, all with the bit and fence in the same position. To make the system work, you need two simple jigs an auxiliary fence and a booster sled, as shown in Figs. I and 2. Making the jigs is simple. (See Figs. 1 and 2.) You can get all the hardware at your local hardware store, except for the knobs (available from Rcid Tool, 800-253-0421, part DK-42). To simplify things further, you can screw or bolt a 3 8-in.-thick piece of wood to your router table's fence instead of making the auxiliary fence jig. The real key to making this joint accurately is to follow the routing sequence that's shown in Fig. 3.
As I worked on the design, I began to think about what I didn't like about the dovetail jigs I've used before. The main problem I've had with other jigs is the system for holding the workpieces tight to the jig. (If the wood shifts even slightly, the joint won't fit together correctly.) On most jigs the workpieces are held with metal bars. The bars are tightened down with wing nuts or knobs. But you just can't tighten them enough to keep the wood from moving around as you rout. And, on some of the jigs, the metal bar bends as the wing nuts are tightened.
Most home craftsmen are familiar with the technique necessary to produce clean miter cuts for picture frames. A simple miter box used with a backsaw will be adequate if locked firmly in the workbench vise. A very handy jig for cutting perfect 45-degree angles with a table saw is detailed in Figure 1. This jig can also be used for halving discs. Cut the jig platform as shown, taking dimensions from your particular table saw. Set jig slides in the saw table slots, making sure they rest against the outboard sides of the slots, and then clamp the slides to the platform. Turn the platform over and secure the slides with screws before releasing the clamps. Run the platform into the saw blade to form the center slot. It's best to use a hollow-ground satin-cut blade for glass-smooth cuts. Lay out the position of the plywood guides using the saw slot as a centerline. When screwing the guides in place, use a framing square to maintain a perfect 90-degree angle. AH shop jigs should be carefully...
Creating perfectly spaced flutes on workpieces for a project is easy with your router and these handy jigs. Fortunately, there are several jigs on the market that make tills an easy task. One of the easiest to use is the Automatic Flute Spacing fig, from DRL Group shown in the main photo above. Unlike some'fluting jigs, the Automatic Flute Spacing Jig isn't
That this particular article was devoted to aftermarket add-ons, but I feel you would have done your readers a service by referencing your earlier article (AW 43), in which you praise the broad range of easy-to-use sharpening jigs designed around the Tormek 2000 water-coolcd sharpening system. The Tormek jigs require no customer installation and cover a much broader range of edge tools than any of the systems reviewed in your article.
I began work on the four legs. The first step is to rip the strips for the legs. To keep the legs from bowing under heavy loads (such as winter coats), I decided to make them 1 ' wide. Each leg is glued up from eight strips, each 3 2 -thick for a total JJl thickness of V4 .
This year, American Woodworker magazine hit the road or* what we call the Blue Highway Tour. Our goal was to visit the workshops of exceptional woodworkers and bring some of their best ideas to you. One of our stops was Pallas, Texas, where we met Frank Gregg. In Frank's shop jigs were virtually jumping out of every nook and cranny. The double-duty tablesaw sled you see here is only one of the hundreds of clever solutions to common shop problems that Frank has invented. Consequently, we gave him the honorary title of The Blue Highway Tour Jiggernaut. M
You can cut dovetails on your band saw with only two jigs the tail jig (shown on page 20) and the pin jig (shown on page 22). But I found it difficult to balance these jigs and a long workpiece on my band saw table. stop block. The stop block stops jigs and workpieces that ride on the auxiliary table.
Still, many woodworkers shy away from them because dovetail jigs are often complicated and expensive. Fear no longer General Tools and Instruments has made a jig that's neither complicated nor expensive. It's perfect for woodworkers ready to take their craft to the next level without a substantial investment.
Clamping serves two fundamental purposes in woodworking first, it draws parts together tightly and ensures that joints that should be square are square and second, it holds parts together until the glue that will hold them together permanently sets. Fur non-woodworking shop projects, clamping is also very important. Among its more common jobs are holding workpieces together while fasteners are driven securing jigs for cutting and drilling and holding small workpieces so they stay steady while you work on them.
Theres no question that a good jig or fixture makes woodworking easier But it takes the right materials and hardware to
We've built a lot of jigs in our shop over the years. And I've found that using better materials produces better jigs. They're more accurate, andthey lastlonger. Take plywoodfor example. It's one material found on most of our jigs. Another material thai we use many of our jigs is a processed wood product tempered hardboard (Masonite). It s made by mixing together and heating wood fibers and synthetic resins. This mixture' is ' then ' com- pressed into large, flat sheets. PHENOLIC. Another plastic product that's added to some of our jigs is phenolic. The material can be cut into a small strip and attached as runner on a jig. The runner fits in the miter slot on a table saw or router table. Phenolic plastic doesn't absorb moisture, so it won't swell or shrink. That keeps ajig sliding easily year round PLASTIC LAMINATE. To solve the problem of availability, some jigs use an inexpensive cousin of phenolic plastic laminate (For
Odd 20 23 78 5 auxiliary miter gauge fence tip lor making and using 112 26 bevels on 7 5 carriage lor 82 4 on narrow stock 80 9 technique lor cutting 110 19 biscuit joinery slots for 88 5 blade alignment 112 24 blade guard lor 60 19 blade setting for 21 8 86 4 angled 71 28 angled, with masking tape 51 3 using arbor 23 3 box joints on angled 35 12-13,15 jigs for 35 14-15.42 16 78 24-27 bridle joints on jig for 24 19 chamfers on curved, jig for 48 20-21 crosscutting long pieces technique for 112 27 crosscutting on preventing rattle 106 4 jigs with sawdust relief lor 66 11 jointing on 76 29 79 4 86 12 kerfs on 77 15 jigs for 76 20 87 21 lap joints on half- 2 11 27 22 29 23 don't use rip fence with 64 23 set-up board 90 4 miter on 112 25 miters on compound 36 21 61 13 no-creep method for 23 3 25 23 moldings on cove 58 14 86 26-27 88 25 cove, fence position for 37 23 cove, jigs for 12 16 36 11 cove, template for 46 6-7 narrow stock on 9 12 62 13 71 7 85 4 jigs for 25 13 40 17 41 lOll 52 3...
My husband, Jerry, built the cabinets and helped me set up my 12'x 12'shop. All of my power tools are scaled for making pens and other small projects, such as fishing lures, wine bottle stoppers and game calls. My husband, Jerry, built the cabinets and helped me set up my 12'x 12'shop. All of my power tools are scaled for making pens and other small projects, such as fishing lures, wine bottle stoppers and game calls. including letter openers, wine bottle stoppers, fishing lures and game calls.These small projects don't throw a lot of sawdust around, so my shop is easy to keep clean and neat. I store my respirators, face protection, project hardware, bits, calipers, rulers, files, glues, gloves, and sanding and finishing supplies inside cabinets and drawers, where they stay dust free and easily accessible.
Single-purpose sled jigs are the most basic and most underused of all tablesaw jigs. A sled jig is just a flat slab of medium-density fiberboard (MDF) guided by the rip fence. Sled jigs are inexpensive, easily made, and accurate you can fashion a new one for each new application. Here I'll show you how to make two sled jigs a jig for duplicating angled buttress parts, and a jig for raising panels. The first jig begets the second one. Have MDF on hand and you'll always be able to make sled jigs. Smooth, flat, and inexpensive, MDF is an ideal material for sled bases and platforms. But MDF edges don't hold screws well, so plywood is better for small, edge-fastened parts like buttresses.
Sam designed his tabiesaw extension for ease of ripping, but he also made sure it wouldn't get in the way of wood being worked on at his adjacent jointer. Sam made his own rollers using black PVC pipe. (He installed two long rollers on one side of the trough and six shorter ones on the other to accommodate boards of different widths.) Compartments hold smaller and exotic pieces of wood, as well as jigs and sleds, plus Sam's dado set.
Eatherboards are simple jigs that enhance both safety and accuracy. Also called fingerboards, they'll hold narrow or thin stock securely against a tool fence or table without jeopardizing your own fingers. If made and used properly, they prevent kickback and help produce smooth, consistent saw and router cuts. In fact, any setup where stock is guided by a fence can be considered featherboard country.
Dudley Murphy and Rick Edmisten, Fishing Lure Collectibles An Identification and Value Guide to the Most Collectible Antique Fishing Lures Vol. I (2nd Ed), Collector Books, 2001. Barlow's Tackle Express, www.barlowstack-le.com, (972) 231-5982, Jann's Netcraft, www.jannsnetcraft.com, (800) 346-6590 Moore's Lures, www.mooreslures.com, (715) 356-6834.
WHEN t PICKED UP Dudley Murphy and Rick Edmisten's Fishing Lure Collectibles (see Sources, page 71), my interests in fishing, antiques and wood turning met head-on Now I'm hooked on making wooden fishing lures. I know this passion is somewhat irrational, because plastic lures are abundant and economical and they catch fish. I make my own wooden lures because it's fun. I love recreating old patterns as much as I love to explore my own theories on catching fish. I enjoy testing unusual shapes and unique finishes. And I can report first-hand that catching a fish with a lure I've made myself is delightful. You should try it yourself.
ATTACH THE SLATS, using shims to keep them evenly spaced. Be sure to put one shim between each leg and the adjacent slat. Use a clamp to keep the slats aligned while the pilot holes are drilled and the screws are set. Wooden plugs.glued in the screw holes and sanded smooth, create a finished look.
The upper panels of my doors showcase the leaded-glass craftsmanship of fellow artisan Dick Giles, of South Mountain Stained Glass in Sinking Spring, PA. I set the glass panels into rabbets in the upper part of the frame and held them in place with L-profilc moldings screwed to the door frame. (See Glazing Detail, l ig. 1.) I concealed the screw heads with wooden plugs, which I glued into the counterbores with hot-melt adhesive so they'd be easy to remove if 1 ever had to replace the glass. (See photo, opposite page.)
These amazing shop-built jigs are perfect for top-notch joints precision cuts and more YES Please send me SHOP TIPS to preview for 21 days free of charge. If I decide to keep it. I'll pay for it in four easy installments of just S6.99 each, plus postage and handling. Otherwise. I'll return the book at the end of the preview period, and owe nothing. I'll also receive a copy of 12 Easy-to-Make Jigs for Precision Woodworking. If I mail this coupon back within 10 days. I'll also be sent 'lite Woodworker's Guide to Sharpening. Both arc mine to keep even if I return SHOP TIPS.
200 photographs and illustrati 19 shop-made router jigs. Now you can learn the practical woodworking s kills that'll give you more professional-looking results on every project. And find out Cow to huild and use hundreds of jigs that'll help you work faster and with much greater control. It's all in
We've devised jigs to handl difficult steps like fitting7. Tools and Materials You'll need turning tools and a lathe with 20-in. spindle capacity for this project. You 11 also need a tablesaw, a jigsaw or handsaw, a router, a router table and a pair of tin snips. A jointer and planer are recommended, but not essential (you can have your stock milled to thickness at the lumberyard). Also necessary are a pair of round-over bits, a pair of straight bits, a 1 2-in. dovetail bit with a long shank, a flush-trim bit with a top-mounted bearing, a 1-1 4-in. template guide and a 1 -in. Forstner bit (see Sources, page 57).
WHETHER YOU NEED CIRCLES ihat are 4 in. or 4 it. in diameter, a jig like this makes it a snap Fit the jig to your saw. modifying the cleats as neccssary. Make your blanks about i-in. bigger than the circle you want to cut. With a ta-in., 4-tpi blade on ihe saw, make a notch in the blank. The notch creates a pocket for the blade to start in. and should be centered on the width of the blank I Photo 2b). Sources Threaded inserts for jigs McFeeleys (800) 443-7937. Knobs for jigs Woodworkers Supply (800) 645-9292.
Most jigs are designed for use with 3 4-in. thick material. The geometry of the jig and the start point of the pocket keep the exit hole in the end grain of 3 4-in. wood, approximately centered. If you tend to use thicker stock, look for a jig that can be stepped back from the edge.
MOUNTTHIS ADJUSTABLE circle jig to your saw table. It has an adjustable dovetailed slider, and a screw for a pivot point.The pivot point must be lined up with the front of the saw blade. With the jig clamped to the saw table, measure from the blade to the jigs pivot point, set it to the desired radius, and lock the dovetailed slider in place. Put the blade in the pre-cut ' -in. by ' i-in. notch, center the blank on the jig. and press the blank down onto the pivot point.
PLUS PLANS FOR 21 TIME* AND WORHSAV1NG JIGS You'll also get step-by-step instructions, detailed plans and up-closc photos for building 21 jigs including an overhead routing jig a dovetail spline jig a router jointing jig a router mortising jig and many others THr Wi KM or Comm * *' c WAND JIGSAW MU ( 3
The square nuts on the fence fit into the mating T-tracks on the table. Two adjustable handles tighten to hold the fence in place. A T-track on the face of the fence holds various stops and jigs. (See opposite page.) Step 4 Paint the exposed plywood on the fence and the table. At this point, I attached a self-adhesive tape rule to my fence to help position jigs accurately.
All seven tenoning jigs I tried are surprisingly similar. Remove die handles, paint all the jigs the same color and you would have a hard time telling them apart. Taking a closer look, though, I did find some subtle but important differences. Let's examine their common features first. Some jigs have additional features that make them easier to set up, adjust and use (see Chart, page 86). Above-jig guide-bar alignment. You must align a new jig so that it's parallel to the saw blade by shifting the guide bar's position. This is a lot easier on jigs whose adjustment screws are accessible from above. On other jigs, the screws are below the sliding table, so you must remove the jig from the saw each time you shift the guide bar. That's very awkward. p Rear handle on table. For the most accurate cuts, 1 prefer jigs that have at least one handle mounted on Lhe sliding table (see photo, page 86, left). On other jigs, both handles are located on the work support. As you're cutting a tenon, I...
Brass Ball Catches, Brass Knobs, Cap Nuts, Connector Bolts, Drawer Slides, Face Frame Clamp, Figure-8 Fasteners, Hinges, Leveler Blocks, Pocket Hole Jigs and Screws, Right Angle Clamp, Shelf Support Pins Amana Router Bits, Cap Nuts, Connector Bolts, Drawer Slides, Face Frame Clamp, Figure-8 Fasteners, Hinges, Kreg Pocket Hole Jigs, Leveler Blocks, Pocket Hole Screws, Right Angle Clamp, Shelf Support Pins Brass Knobs, Drawer Slides, Keller Dovetail Jigs, Tabletop Fasteners, Router Bits Face Frame Clamp, Pocket Hole Jigs and Screws, Right Angle Clamp Drawer Slides, Face Frame Clamp, Figure-8 Fasteners, Pocket Hole Jigs and Screws, Right Angle Clamp
Some of my birdhouses have steep roofs which require cutting angles of 60* or more on the tablesaw. Instead of making several fixed-angle jigs, I built this adjustable one from 3 4-in. plywood. Two lid supports allow the jig to adjust to angles from 45* to 90*. Make sure that the back support is high enough so the lid supports clear your fence.
In addition to sharpening hand tools, you can renew the edges of planer and jointer knives on some sharpening machines. They should offer both coarse and medium grinding because you'll have to remove a lot of steel to get past deep nicks. Good machines have easily calibrated adjustments, well-machined jigs and clear instructions.
Making vacuum-clamping jigs involves woodworking familiars like solid wood, plywood, and plastic laminate, and some acquaintances like acrylic, polycarbonate, and phc-nolic plastics. But strangers must be involved, too vinyl hose, barbed hose connectors and related fittings, and special vacuum tape. Don't worry too much about the unfamilar supplies you need. When you buy a vacuum system, you'll undoubtedly gel a roll of vacuum tape, a small assortment of fittings, and a length of suitable hose. After you've made a few jigs, you can buy more tape from the original vendor. Fittings and hose you can probably buy for less money at a local hardware or auto pans store. Just match the stuff you got in the original purchase. Seal wooden vacuum jigs with shellac, poly-urethane, or some other film finish. Thus sealed, jigs made of solid wood and man-made wood products, which all tend to be porous to some degree, will be less likely to leak air. Apply two or three coats to be sure the jig is...
Unlike on other jigs, the Pocket Cutter's pilot holes arc parallel with the face of the stock, so your workpieces remain flush when screwed together and there's no chance of a screw tip breaking through die wixkI. The model 550 lias a 5 amp motor and accepts stock from in. to V 2 in. thick. (Price 330) Porter Cable. Dept. A WT, Box 2468. Jackson, TM 38302-2468, (901) 664-0307.
Delta's tool rest is the Sherman tank of grinder jigs 6 lbs. of cast iron. It's the only jig that mounts on the grinder wheel housing instead of on the bench. A cast wheel housing will provide the best rigidity for this rest. The light-gauge, stamped-steel housings found on the cheapest grinders won't be stiff or strong enough.
Doweling jigs (see Sources, p. 63) make assembly fast and accurate (Photos 5 and 6). Youll need cauls and at least a dozen clamps with 30-in. capacity to glue the face frames on the bottom cabinet and even more for the top. Or you can use a nail gun and glue and nail the lace
I built this auxiliary drill press table to give me the extra support and room I need when drilling cabinet doors and sides. The core is MDF but particleboard would also work fine. I edged my table with oak to make the edges more durable. The plastic laminate provides a smooth surface to work on and should last a long time. Having plastic laminate on both sides keeps the table stiff and stable. The table insert is replaceable and the fence is quick and simple to adjust. The T-slot tracks make it easy to add other jigs and fixtures. My table measures 18 in. by 35-1 2 in. and has proved to be a good size for most work. I bought all the parts at my local home center and woodworking store for about 75.
Pocket holes are amazingly simple to make. All you need is a drill, a drilling jig and a special stepped drill bit. Kxeg Tool Co., whicli specializes in pocket-hole joinery systems, has some terrific new jigs and specialized clamps I'll show you. I'll also share some techniques that make pocket-hole joinery easier than ever.
Equipping your shop with a small, portable air compressor opens the door to a whole line of time-saving pneumatic tools. You can use a brad nailer or stapler to quickly assemble jigs, furniture and shop projects. For more exotic uses, you can run a vacuum-bag veneering system or air-powered clamps. And you can use your compressor around the house for putting up trim, building a deck, inflating car tires and basketballs, and so on.
Once the curved parts are made, there's not a lot of work to assemble the hall tree. The S-hooks and ring are secured to the post with brass oval-head screws. I also used walnut plugs to cover the flathead screws in the leg holes. (Woodsmith Project Supplies is offering the walnut plugs and the patterns for the bending jigs, see Sources on page 31.) BENDING JIGS
Any fastening job that requires hammering a small nail can be done better, faster and easier with a brad nailer. A great addition to any workshop, these compact nailers (Photo 1) are perfect for light-duty fastening jobs like attaching moldings or making picture frames, assembling jigs or securing face frames for clamping. The best feature of any brad nailer is the tiny hole it leaves, thanks to the pin-like 18-gauge brads it fires (Photo 2).
More than any other machine, the tablesaw requires a lot of paraphernalia. Various blades, a wrench to change the blades, the miter gauge, inserts, featherboards, jigs the list goes on. Here's a great do-it-yourself project that'll keep all that stuff together and at your fingertips. Just bolt a piece of plywood between the base and the saw to create a platform for storing and hanging all kinds of tablesaw stuff. Cost 5.
Mark your good-looking panels by tracing around the inside of the door frames. Cut out the traced panels at least 1 2 in. larger on all four sides. Then trim them to fit the frames. Use the ugly plywood that's left over for jigs or in other places where appearance doesn't matter.
You can buy extra bits and fingers for half-blind dovetails and other thicknesses of material individually or in a package. A package that includes the jig, dust port and every set of fingers and bits the jig can handle costs 500. The 16-in. capacity is also a disadvantage. Comparable jigs in this price range have a 24-in. capacity. Akeda hopes to have a 24-in. version later in 2005.
The durable, slick surface is perfect for jigs, fences, out-feed tables and router tables. I use it in my shop as an assembly table cover. Glue drips pop right off and the slick surface makes it easy to slide around heavy assemblies. It's not as durable as plastic laminate for high-wear surfaces such as countertop and desktops, but it's plenty tough for shop use.
This wonderful 8-in. saw, equipped with a precision sliding table, was designed to cut metal type to length. Years ago, you'd find Hammond Gliders in newspaper shops across the country, but computers have rendered them obsolete. The company that made them, Hammond Machinery Builders of Kalamazoo, Michigan, recommends that these saws not be used for general woodworking (OSHA issues about guarding the blade, no doubt), but I only use my Glider to precisely crosscut small pieces of wood for segmented turnings. I use the table as it is for square cuts for angled cuts, I build jigs. It complements, but certainly doesn't replace, my regular tablesaw.
You can make this box with many different dovetail jigs. I used a Keller (no relation ) through-dovetail jig for the corners (see Sources, page 65). Other through-dovetail jigs will work, but you may have to change the width of the box's sides for the spacing between the pins and tails to look good. You can also use a half-blind dovetail jig, the kind widely used for making drawers. If you do, you might have to increase the thickness of the sides and ends to accommodate the dovetails' length.
The wet wheels work fine, but the standard tool rests on the single-wheel machines are too narrow and not equipped with jigs. It takes practice to make a consistent bevel. Delta's jig works well. Some machines offer auxiliary tool rests for planer knives that are wider and accept a neat aftermarket jig (see Recommended Accessory, at right).
It can help you size work, decide which slo spacing to use. and so forth. The slotting jigs I've made all have two spacings. I use a short scrap as a sample. I cut one spacing on one end. the second spacing on the other. I keep the slotted sampleonthcshclfwith itsrespec-tivc jig.
Good one, especially since the price of commercial knife-setting jigs has climbed over the last few years. But your illustration is misleading it shows a knife being set when not at top dead center. The easiest way to determine top dead center for each jointer knife is to be sure the edge of the knife is directly above the axis of the cutterhead shaft.
Two through mortises must be routed in each foot (Fig. C). The surfaces are curved, so a pair of jigs are required to complete the job. The first jig guides the router on the top of the foot (Fig. D). The holes in the jig are larger than the mortises by 1 4 all around, which allows using a 3 4 guide bushing and a 1 2 mortising bit to rout the mortises. Find the centerline of each foot (Photo 6). This line will be your reference for positioning the foot in the mortising jig. Centerlines marked on both sides of the jig match up with the lines marking the center point of the foot. Clamp the jig to the foot, using small clamps that run underneath the foot. Clamp the assembly in your bench vise and then plunge-rout the mortises halfway through the foot (Photo 7).
Tired of saw cuts that are rough, ragged, or out of square Then try one of these alignment jigs for dialing in extreme accuracy on your table saw. ALIGNMENT JIGS. Aligning a table saw can be a tedious, time-consuming, and often frustrating task. So it's only natural that several manufacturers have come up with jigs to take some of the hassle out of adjusting and aligning your table saw. I took a look at three jigs that are currently on the market the A-Line-lt fig, the TS-Aligner Jr., and the SuperBar Jig (photo at left). They range in price from 60 to 135 (see page 51 for sources). WHAT THEY DO. These jigs allow you to check several settings on your table saw. Any one of them HOW THEY WORK. Although they each have some different features, all three jigs work in the same way. They all fit in the miter gauge slot of the saw and use a dial indicator to precisely measure slight variations in distance between two points. THE BOTTOM LINE. So do you actually need one of these jigs The short...
N air nailer is the ideal tool for quickly attaching cabinet backs and moldings, and building shop fixtures, jigs and prototypes. It sinks brads and nails below the wood's surface and won't knock carefully positioned parts out of alignment like hammer blows often do. Plus, it's fasti A small -hp air compressor will supply the 100 psi. air nailers require.
I often use a template jig for heavy cuts or for securing small work that would otherwise be unsafe to shape with a router (Photo 14).Template jigs demand a little more work than just making the template.The purpose of the jig is to securely fix the workpiece as it is routed.This requires adding stop blocks on the jig to position the workpiece and to counteract the forces of the spinning bit. I begin by making the template (the jig's base), then glue the stop blocks in position and fasten them with screws. 16).They open and close quickly and have good holding power. I use toggle clamps on most of my template jigs. Usually, I have to add a block to the jig to bring the toggle clamp approximately level with the workpiece.
Mehler doesn't waste time reiterating what anyone who owns a table-saw already knows. But he does show his favorite jigs in action, like a simple jig for ensuring that multiple cross-cuts are all exactly the same length. He has a big industrial pin router that he uses to make mortises. Recognizing that few people will make mortises that way, he shows how to cut them with a plunge router.
The problem with using dowels to align the boards is really a problem of trying to align the dowel holes in the first place. Each set of opposing holes (for the dowels) must be exactly opposite each other for the length of the boards. Doweling jigs and dowel centers are designed to help with this problem. But they never seem to be able to pull it off, especially when you're working long boards (as on a table top).
The old saying, necessity is the mother of invention is certainly true when it comes to woodworking jigs and techniques. The necessity for my multipurpose fence came in the form of a cigar humidor I recently built (see, Asian Inspired Humidor, AW 134, March, 2008, p. 76). I first built the sliding tall fence to cut slots for the decorative splines in that project. Then I added the hold-downs to cut the raised panels for the humidor lid. With a few more modifications, I was able to use my new sliding fence to safely resaw padauk & Spanish cedar used for the box liners.
Most people think the jointer is good only for straight surfaces, but when I want a nice, crisp tapered leg, the jointer is the machine I choose. A well-tuned jointer turns out tapers that are crisp, true, and nearly ready to finish. And unlike the bandsaw or the tablesaw, the jointer cuts tapers without elaborate jigs that just clutter up your shop.
LEIGH INDUSTRIES HAS LONG BEEN KNOWN FOR its line of sophisticated dovetail jigs and, more recently, the FMT, a jig for making mortise and tenon joints. The original FMT came with a pretty big price tag, but now Leigh has introduced a much less expensive model-the Super FMT-without any sacrifice in precision or versatility.
Super Dovetail Jigs Super Dovetail Jigs Leigh Industries' Super Jigs present many virtues found on Leigh's legendary D4R dovetailing jig. Available in 12-, 18- and 24-in. models, there's a Super Jig priced to fit every budget. Super Jigs allow cutting variably-spaced through and half-blind dovetails, fixed half-blind dovetails in a single pass, sliding dovetails and box joints. Half-blind dovetail joints can be rabbeted, to create lipped drawer fronts. Quick-action cam clamps make it easy to install and remove workpieces. Super Jigs require simple assembly. Plan to spend a while with the owner's manual. It's fully illustrated and well written, so it's easy to read and understand. Switching from one operation to another requires minor changes, such as flipping over the guide finger assembly or installing snap-in adaptors a small price to pay for the jigs' versatility. A handy pull-out quick-reference set-up guide stores under the jig.
With the shoulders cut, you're ready to put the tenoning jig to work cutting the cheeks and edges. There are many types of tenoning jigs, but the one I like to use, shown at right, has the dual advantage of being simple to build and easy to use. It's essentially a saddle that rides along the rip fence of your saw to carry the workpiece past the blade. A vertical fence holds the piece straight and square. And any adjustment to the cut is as easy as moving the rip fence.
JIGS FOR PRODUCING HALF-BLIND DOVETAILS DOMINATED the Hand-cut dovetails are the ultimate sign of craftsmanship, but not every woodworker has the time or inclination to produce them. The Leigh D1258 and its successors (including the current D4R Pro and do-it-all type jigs produced by other manufacturers), allow woodworkers of all stripes to create dovetails with the same pleasing appearance, precision and structural integrity as dovetails that have been cut by hand. To read about other dovetailing jigs and to see a classic blanket chest built with a Leigh dovetailing jig, visit AmericanWoodworker.com WebExtras The main reason for the router's enormous popularity is its versatility. Routers are available in all sizes and they're complemented by a huge selection of bits, jigs, router tables and joint-making machines. You can take a router to the work, or install it in a table and bring the work to it. Use the smallest router to trim laminate or round over sharp edges use the largest...
With a hand-held drill, make a guide by mounting a 6-inch length of coat hanger wire in a small scrap of wood. Bend the wire to the angle you want to drill, and place it close to the hole location. Drill the hole, sighting along both the wire and the bit to keep them parallel. You can buy jigs that hold a portable drill at a precise angle, but you'll be surprised at how accurate this simple method can be. with a hand-held drill, make a guide by mounting a 6-inch length of coat hanger wire in a small scrap of wood. Bend the wire to the angle you want to drill, and place it close to the hole location. Drill the hole, sighting along both the wire and the bit to keep them parallel. You can buy jigs that hold a portable drill at a precise angle, but you'll be surprised at how accurate this simple method can be.
When building louvered shutters, there are two important things to keep in mind. First, you want all the louvers to be consistent and fit properly in the frame. And second, once all the pieces are made, you need an easy way to assemble them. This is where the two simple jigs I built come into play. So before you get started, you'll want to turn to page 25 and put these jigs together. It'll be time well spent.
Or bring coupon to a Rockier store near you.One-time use only. Minimum purchase of 30 in qualifying merchandise required. Cannot be applied to sales tax or shipping. No cash value. Cannot be combined with other offers or coupons.Valid at Rockier retail stores only. Not valid at Rockier Partner store locations. Excludes sale items, power tools, Leigh jigs. Porter-Cable dovetail jigs. Shark CNC, Omni Jigs, Festool, Fein, Rockier and Bench Dog router table packages and Rockier Gift Cards. Offer expires 6 1 2009.
Basic jigs simplify a complex project by Robert Kempinski My wife had her heart set on shutters for every window in our house. Since the cost of buying them was prohibitive, she challenged me to make them instead. So I devised a few elementary jigs in my small home shop to make the job simple and precise.
You will find a claw hammer convenient for making jigs and mock-ups from softwood. Not only can you drive in large nails with ease, but you can also extract them with the split peen. using the strong shaft as a lever. Though slightly more expensive, all-metal claw hammers are even stronger than those with wooden shafts.
Two jigs make a complicated joint ever so easy. This exceptionally strong joint was traditionally used to bind solid shelves and dividers to the sides of a carcase. A standard sliding dovetail must overcome a lot of friction to go home, but a tapered sliding dovetail is a cinch to assemble. My bookcase on page 70 makes full use of it, additionally joining the top to the sides. The jigs I buill are sized to fit the bookcase, but it's easy to tailor them to another project.
The key to the machine's performance is its large (2-in.-wide by lO-in.-dia.) aluminum oxide grindstone and an 1 1 -in.-long universal support that acts as a tool rest, either for free-hand grinding or as a base to mount various jigs. Together, the wide stone and rigid support provide an extremely stable and solid assembly. trough at 90 rpm, Tormek's hefty grinding stone and fine wheels, Tormek's removes metal quickly with no risk of ruining the 220-grit stone can also func-temper of a cutting edge. Tools are honed on the tion like a 1200-grit stone leather wheel. Well-designed jigs make for easy, with the aid of an optional accurate sharpening. silicone carbide stone grad
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