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Contact Cement for Veneer?

16 American Woodworker OCTOBER 2003


DAP. (888) 327-8-477, Weldwood Piastic-Resin Glue,#00203, I Ib.; $7,

Constantines, (954) 561-1716.

Veneer Glue (contact cement}, #12VGP,

Q. I'm about to start my first veneering project, a small box. Is contact cement okay to use?

A. Contact cement is easy to use because you don't need clamps, but for the best results, go with plastic-resin glue (see Sources, below), the choice of plywood manufacturers and veneering pros.

What's not so good about contact cement? It's risky. First, bubbles, bumps or ridges in the glue can show or "telegraph" through to the surface. Second, some finishes, especially wipe-on oils and varnishes, can soak through the veneer, loosen the glue and cause the veneer to lift. Lastly, contact cement stays flexible, but a rigid bond is more durable. The veneer may come loose and its joints may separate, causing the veneer to crack or split.

If you still want to try contact cement,you can minimize these risks by using veneers that are dead flat, laying the veneer on a stable substrate (such as MDF), using a contact cement formulated for veneer (see Sources, at right), and sealing with shellac before applying a top coat of finish.

Plastic-resin glue is generally sold as a powder that you mix with water. When it's dry it makes a very rigid bond.

Yellow glue works okay, but when it dries it's not as rigid as plastic-resin glue. It's also more susceptible to heat and water damage.

JDS AIR-TECH and Dust-Force

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